For the last womenswear show, I had the pleasure and privilege to observe the goings-on at Yamamoto’s Paris HQ and Espace Vendôme, the show venue, in the hours and days before the show went live.
When the models are chosen the day before the show, they are allocated outfits individually on the day before the show: some will only show one look, others up to four, depending on how their personalities suit the garments. Yamamoto chooses the look, gestures, says a few words, he and the team move around quietly to adjust details. Eugene Souleiman and Pat McGrath, the hair and make-up team, have worked on Yamamoto’s shows for years and it makes the atmosphere familiar and relaxed.
In the afternoon of the next day, the models begin to arrive at the show venue, some later than others. When their hair and make-up is done, the models line up along the raised catwalk and are briefed on the way they should walk by Yohji Yamamoto and his right-hand man Tadashi Kubo.