Costumes for Because We Must
Designed by Leigh Bowery
Made by Mr. Pearl
London, crewel work & appliqué, 1987
S.101 & 102-2010
On display in room 105
For maverick gay artist, costume designer, club promoter and poseur, Leigh Bowery (1961-1994), fashion and clothing were an integral part of his performance art and public persona.
Born in Australia, Bowery moved to London in 1980 where he later hosted nights at the infamous Taboo nightclub. He became a leading figure in underground clubbing scenes, infamous for his outrageous performances and flamboyant costumes.
Bowery played a key role in Michael Clark’s post-punk dance company with whom he performed and designed costumes. These costumes were created for a performance of Because We Must – their design based on one of Bowery’s own clubbing outfits. Bowery’s distinctive, androgynous style had an important impact on the development of post-modern drag and the influence of his designs and performances is still visible in the fashion and art worlds of today.
In 1988 Bowery was introduced to the painter Lucian Freud, becoming a favoured model and posing for him over a four-year period. A series of photographs by Bruce Bernard showing Bowery posing in Freud’s studio are held in the V&A’s collection.
