Why shoes?


Asia
October 24, 2014

It all started on a lovely day in Spring 2010, when I came across all these drawers in one of the V&A stores – full of lovely Indian shoes. The shoes were weird and wonderful, and to me unfamiliar. There were curly toes, long toes, shoes made out of rich and colourful materials, embroidery with iridescent green beetle wings, silk, spangles and lots and lots of gold. It was like opening a treasure chest.

IS.7-1985_bb6e10726bf2bfa5da21493ab5668a2a
Red satin slippers, satin and leather embroidered with metal thread and spangles, India, 1800s. Museum no. IS.7-1985. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Who had worn these? When and why? Some of them certainly didn’t look that practical or comfortable to walk in. These were shoes for special occasions, and for the elite – the fortunate few who don’t have to do manual labour or even walk very far. And I realised that this was exactly the case in China. Japan, Egypt and of course also true of fashion footwear in Europe and America: the more embellished and fantastically shaped footwear, the wealthier the wearer. Throughout centuries and across cultures, impractical footwear – both male and female – denotes privileged and leisurely lifestyles through design, material and decoration, making them unsuitable for manual labour or even walking.

Gold heeled shoes, leather, non-ferrous metal and plastic, Dolce & Gabbana, Italy, 2013. Museum no. T.13:3&4–2014. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

How come shoes are such potent symbols of status and identity? In ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, footwear was the prerogative of the ruling class and slaves were not allowed to wear sandals as their masters. And well into the twentieth century lower classes wore shoes only for special occasions. Without practical purpose, shoes become performance pieces, whose appearance in the public sphere can transform a person into a king or queen.

So many of the shoes in the V&A collection are telling this powerful story about humans and their complex relationship with objects that originated as practical form of protection, and I thought that this story is worth telling to a wider audience. It could be a great exhibition! I discussed my idea with colleagues, thinking a little bit more and finally presenting it to the V&A’s Public Programme Group in the Summer of 2010. So here we are, with a fabulous team of research assistant, exhibition co-ordinator and assistant, textile conservator and photographer, putting together a shoe exhibition which will open in June next year – eeeekkk…and there are so many shoes to choose from. How can I make a selection?

A selection of Lionel Bussey’s shoe collection, various materials from various European countries, 1920s-1960s. Museum no. T.281 to T.329-1970. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

About the author


Asia
October 24, 2014

Since January 2014 I have been based in the Research department, V&A, focussing on the Shoe exhibition and its accompanying publication. I also oversee the collection of Chinese textiles and...

More from Helen Persson
1 comment so far, view or add yours

Comments

Add a comment

Please read our privacy policy to understand what we do with your data.

MEMBERSHIP

Join today and enjoy unlimited free entry to all V&A exhibitions, Members-only previews and more

Find out more

SHOP

Find inspiration in our incredible range of exclusive gifts, jewellery, books, fashion, prints & posters and much more...

Find out more