Italian Fashion: Rubinacci
Mariano Rubinacci, Chariman of Rubinacci
The quality for us is the most important thing. I think that we have to give our signature to the suit, like you know, a painting. You know, because it’s not a question about fashion, you know, short jacket, long jacket, big lapel, short lapel, this doesn’t work with us, our suit is for the life. So the suit has to be made for you, for that I call our job as personal stylist.
For instance we use 100% silk lining for the jackets that nobody use because it’s delicate and will destroy very quickly. But when destroyed, we change, it’s not a big deal. But the softness and the allure, whenever they open my--, a jacket of ours and you see the richness of the silk and the stripe in the sleeves that is our, you know, yellow and black [laughs]. And it’s a little unusual for a man’s--, a man’s jacket, and that character is our jacket, that it’s better inside than outside [laughs]. And also with our logo, we don’t put any logo inside. We just put the LH with crown that is the logo that my father started in the ‘30s, and put on the neck and that’s it.
I sell Naples to the world. London is the main place, the better place where to promote Naples, that’s my idea. We have a great Neapolitan tradition for men’s suit that is I think is tiny more modern than the traditional one because of our concept of having an unconstructed jacket. Of course we have 80 years tradition to defend and that’s important. Being in London and getting some results in London, that make me very proud.
England, I love England, and don’t forget that my father called the company London House, so LH with the crown means London House, so this in the 30s [laughs]. So it is a long time ago since we have this feeling with England, and that’s nice, that I like. Everything is made by me, by my son, by my daughter. I wish to retire but I will not--, I will not.
I am trying to give my son more and more, day by day. Every day to give--, to get them more responsible. And also I am training a lot of young staff that wanted to proceed in this job. Because I feel for the future to keep the new generation, to keep the new people, new staff in this job.
Mariano Rubinacci, the head of second generation in a family of tailors, is among the world's principle flag-bearers for Neapolitan men's clothing, which, as he explains to us, is defined by its "unstructured", thus softer, style. That is not to say that Rubinacci's approach eschews flair: the jackets are lined with somewhat impractical silk – just for emphatically Italian fun.