Fashioning Kimono:
Dress in early 20th century Japan

Kimono for a woman, 1930-50. Montgomery Collection

These boldly patterned and brilliantly coloured kimono reveal the dynamism of Japanese textile design in the early 20th century. This was a period of economic prosperity and cultural expansion. Although western-style clothes were gaining popularity among women, the kimono continued to be worn. The traditional cut of the garment remained the same, but the motifs were dramatically enlarged and new designs appeared, inspired by western styles such as Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Their striking patterns reflected the confident spirit of the age and provided an exuberant visual statement for the modern, independent, urban woman.

In creating these exciting new patterns, textile designers benefited from technological advances made in the late 19th century. Power-operated spinning machines and jacquard looms introduced from Europe speeded up production and lowered costs, while chemical dyes allowed for the creation of dazzling colours. New types of silk and innovative patterning techniques were also developed, making relatively inexpensive, highly fashionable garments available to more people than ever before. These vibrant kimono styles remained popular until the 1950s.

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