20th-century designers (USA-based) reading list

General

Baizerman, S. Lauria, J. & Greenberg, T. California Design: The Legacy of West Coast Craft and Style. California, 2005
Beard, T. 100 Years of Western Wear. Utah, 2001
Blum, D. & Haugland, K.H. Best Dressed: Fashion From the Birth of Couture to Today. Philadelphia, 1997
Bullis, D. (ed) California Fashion Designers: Art and Style. Utah, 1987
DeWeese, G. & Weil, S. Western Shirts. California, 2004
Hartman, R. Birds Of Paradise: An Intimate View of the New York Fashion World. Delacorte Pr, U.S.A., 1980
Garcia, B. Where'd You Get Those? New York Sneaker Culture 1967-1987. New York, 2006
George-Warren, H. How the West Was Worn: A Complete History of Western-Wear. New York, 2001
Hall, M. & Carne, M. California Fashion: From the Old West to New Hollywood. New York, 2002
Martin, R. American Ingenuity: Sportswear 1930s-1970s. New York, 1998
Marzio, P.C. Celebrating Seventh: New York Fashion Designers. Houston, 1996
Miller, R.R.E. The Threads of Time, the Fabric of History: Profiles of African American Dressmakers And Designers From 1850 To The Present. Washington, 2003
Milbank, C.R. Couture: The Great Designers. London, 1985
Milbank, C.R. New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style. New York, 1989
Morris, B. The Fashion Makers: An Inside Look at  America's Leading Designers. New York, 1978
Reilly, M. California Casuals: Fashions 1930-1970. New York, 2000
Tomerlin, S.L. American Fashion. New York, 1975
Tonelli, J. & Luers, M. Bowling Shirts. New York, 2000

Individual Designers

Gilbert Adrian

Gutner, H. Gowns by Adrian, The MGM Years 1928-1941. New York, 2001
Tomerlin, S.L. American Fashion. New York, 1975

Geoffrey Beene

Beene, G. Geoffrey Beene: The First Twenty-five Years: An Exhibition at the National Academy of Design, New York City, September 20 until October 9. 1988. New York, 1988
Cullerton, B. Geoffrey Beene: The Anatomy of His Work. New York, 1995
Jacobs, L. Beauty and the Beene: A Modern Legend. New York, 1999
Luther, M., Jacobs L. & Parmal, P.A. Beene by Beene. New York, 2005

Bill Blass

Blass, B. Bare Blass. London, 2003
O'Hagan, H. Bill Blass: An American Designer. New York, 2002

Cassini Oleg

Cassini, O. A Thousand Days of Magic: Dressing Jacqueline Kennedy for the White House. New York, 1995
Cassini, O. In My Own Fashion: An Autobiography. New York, 1987

Oscar de la Renta

Carrillo, L. Oscar de la Renta. Florida, 1996
Mower, S. & Wintour, A. Oscar: The Style Inspiration and Life of Oscar de la Renta. London, 2002

Perry Ellis

Moor, J. Perry Ellis: A Biography. New York, 1988

Anne Fogarty

Fogarty, A. Wife Dressing. New York, 1959

Rudi Gernreich

Moffitt, P. & Luther, M.  Rudi Gernreich. London, 1999
Du Bois, W.P. Pretty Pretty Peggy Moffitt. New York, 1968

Howard Greer

Greer, H. Designing Male. Robert Hale, 1952

Elizabeth Hawes

Hawes, E. Fashion is Spinach. New York, 1940
Hawes, E. Why is a Dress? Who? What? When?. New York, 1942
Hawes, E. It's Still Spinach. Indiana, 1954

Roy Frowick Halston

Bluttal, S. Halston. London, 2001
Gaines, S. Simply Halston: The Untold Story. New York, 1991
Gross, E. & Rottman, F. Halston: An American Original. London, 1999

Carolina Herrera

Kotur, A. Carolina Herrera: Portrait of a Fashion Icon. London, 2004
Riehecky, J. Carolina Herrera: International Fashion Designer. Chicago, 1991

Edith Head

Benesh, C.L.E. Reflections of Edith Head: An Exhibition of Costumes and Sketches, February 19 through March 28, 1976. California, 1976
Chierichetti, D. Edith Head: The Life and Times of Hollywood's Celebrated Costume Designer. London, 2003
Head, E. The Dress Doctor. Indiana, 1954
Head, E. & Hyams, J. How to Dress for Success. Indiana, 1959
Head, E. and Calistrio, P. Edith Head's Hollywood. Boston, 1983

Marc Jacobs

Foley, B. Marc Jacobs (A Fashion Memoir). London, 2004
Teller, J., Sherman, C. & Jacobs, M. Juergen Teller, Cindy Sherman, Marc Jacobs. New York, 2006

Charles James

Coleman, E A. The Genius of Charles James. California, 1982
De La Haye, A., Taylor, L. & Thompson, E. A Family of Fashion: The Messels: Six Generations of Dress. London, 2005
Martin, R. Charles James (A Fashion Memoir). London, 2004

Donna Karan

Sischy, I. The Journey Of A Woman: 20 Years of Donna Karan. London, 2004
Sischy, I. Donna Karan. London, 2006
Tippins, S. Donna Karan (Wizards of Business). Oklahoma, 1991

Calvin Klein

Marsh, L. The House of Klein: Fashion, Controversy, and a Business Obsession. New Jersey, 2003.
Gaines, S. &  Churcher, S. Obsession: The Lives and Times of Calvin Klein. New York, 1995

Ralph Lauren

Canadeo, A. Ralph Lauren: Master of Fashion. Oklahoma, 1991
Gross, M. Genuine Authentic: The Real Life of Ralph Lauren. London, 2003
McDowell, C. Ralph Lauren: the Man, the Vision, the Style. New York, 2003

Claire McCardell

McCardell, C. What Shall I Wear?. New York, 1956
Tomerlin, S.L. American Fashion. New York, 1975
Yohannan, K. & Nolf, N. Claire McCardell: Redefining Modernity. New York, 1998

Mary McFadden

McFadden, M. Mary McFadden: High Priestess of High Fashion: A Life in Haute Couture, Décor and Design. New Hampshire, 2004

Mainbocher

Tomerlin, S.L. American Fashion. New York, 1975

Norman Norell

Tomerlin, S.L. American Fashion. New York, 1975

Nudie

Cabrall, M.L. & Nudie, J. L. Nudie the Rodeo Tailor. Utah, 2004

Helen Rose

Haugland, H.K. Grace Kelly: Icon of Style to Royal Bride. New York, 2006
Rose, H. Just Make Them Beautiful. California,1981

Arnold Scaasi

Scaasi, A. Women I Have Dressed (and Undressed!). New York, 2004
Scaasi, A. Scaasi: A Cut Above. New York, 1996

Irene (Irene Sharaff)

Sharaff, I. Broadway and Hollywood: Costumes Designed by Irene Sharaff. New York, 1976

Vivienne Tam

Tam, V. China Chic. New York, 2005

William Travilla

Reilly, Maureen E. L. Hollywood Costume Design by Travilla. Pennsylvania, 2003

Pauline Trigere

Tomerlin, S.L. American Fashion. New York, 1975

Diane von Furstenberg

Tally, A.L. Diane von Furstenberg: The Wrap. London, 2004
Von Fustenberg, D. Diane: A Signature Life. New York, 1998

Yeohlee

Teng, Y. Yeohlee: Work-Material Architecture. Victoria, 2003