Across the conservator's bench: Jewellery gallery
One of the FuturePlan projects was the re-display and re-interpretation of the Jewellery gallery collections. Textile conservation played a minor role in the efforts to prepare the objects for re-display. However it was a great opportunity to work on a small collection from this varied group; from necklace ties, jewellery boxes, pocket watch pair-case linings to scabbards, basically anything with textile and leather components that are identified as vulnerable, structurally weak and in need of conservation.
Enamelled Watch and Pair Case
This enamelled gold watch was made in England and dates from between 1625-1650. The movement and dial were replaced by Arlander Dobson London and it is thought that this work was also carried out during this period.
The watch sits in a silver engraved, late 17th century, pair-case that bears the Stuart Royal arms in garter, the crested helm and supporters. It is monogrammed with the initials C.R. and the defaced inscription 'This watch was a present from ye king of the Earl of Monteith'. It is thought that the watch originally belonged to Charles I and was later presented by Charles II to William Graham, 19th Earl of Monteith (1661-94).
Blue silk is used to line the pierced-work watch case and was in poor condition when it was brought to textile conservation. It had adhesive deposits locally applied to the based of the silk lining. It is not clear why this was applied, as it does not appear to have been used to secure other components. It is probable that they are residues dropped onto the surface while previous repair work was undertaken.
The silk was also structurally damaged and the conservation treatment involved removing the deposits and patch supporting the silk using an adhesive treatment.
Gilded and Red Leather box
Gilded and red leather box that is thought to have been made in Parisabout 1809. This box houses an enamelled gold box, set with brilliant-cut pastes and a miniature of Napoleon I, makers mark 'VB' Post-Revolutionary Paris marks for 1809-1819.
The plaque on the interior of the leather box is inscribed with the words - 'Presented to Adm. Sir Thos. Ussher by the Emperor Napoleon at Portoferrajo in the Isle of Elba, on the 27th May 1814'.
The box was surface cleaned to remove ingrained soiling. The photomicrograph shows a detail of the gilt work on the lid of the box.
Gold Bead Necklace
Three strand gold bead necklace with sixty-eight beads threaded on silk cord. The beads are ornamented with filigree work in a Etruscan style, thought to originate from the Lombardy region in Italy and date from the mid-19th century.
The silk ribbon ties were in poor condition with holes and slits in the textile which is probably related to mechanical action as a result of repeated use. They were curled and crushed also related to use, but it is likely that previous storage methods have also contributed to their condition.
The treatment included reducing the creasing, re-aligning fibres in the structurally weak areas and stitch supporting the tears.
Pair Case
The pair case was made circa 1720 in England. It is a pierced and chased gold watch and pair case with a key and seal. The case is monogrammed with the initials ED and the case makers mark is IE.
The pink satin woven silk was in poor condition when it arrived in textile conservation for treatment.
It was surface cleaned, local deposits were removed mechanically and weak areas were patch supported using an adhesive treatment.
17th Century Scabbard
This is a vellum scabbard for a small sword made by Joannes Kalkoen circa 1670 in Amsterdam. The hilt of the sword is enamelled gold and the blade is inscribed 'Francisco (Ru)iz en Toleto' and bears the makers mark.
The scabbard, constructed of calfskin, has been worked over a fine wooden core. The vellum is applied in one piece and stitched on the reverse proper right side. It has a number of engraved markings towards the hilt end that were not clearly legible prior to cleaning due to a heavy coat of ingrained soil.
18th Century Scabbard
A vellum scabbard for a small presentation sword, circa 1781. It is signed by the maker James Sharpnell, London. The underside of the hilt is inscribed with the words 'Presented to L.Colonel - James Hartley in testimony of his brave & gallant by the honourable East India Company 1779'.
The vellum is worked and stitched over a layer of felted wool. It is likely that it also has a wooden core, although there is insufficient access to confirm this. There is some damage to the felt, visible at the collar end. Areas of structural damage and previous adhesive treatments are also evident. It would have been damaging to remove this adhesive as it is impregnated into the felted wool fibres, therefore some of the more vulnerable tears were secured with an adhesive treatment. The vellum was cleaned.
A gift in your will
You may not have thought of including a gift to a museum in your will, but the V&A is a charity and legacies form an important source of funding for our work. It is not just the great collectors and the wealthy who leave legacies to the V&A. Legacies of all sizes, large and small, make a real difference to what we can do and your support can help ensure that future generations enjoy the V&A as much as you have.
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Traditional Jewellery: In Nineteenth-Century Europe (Hardback)
Although less well-known today, European jewellery - jewellery worn with traditional or national costume - was highly fashionable in nineteenth-centur…
Buy nowEvent - European Traditional Jewellery
Wed 12 June 2013 13:00
LUNCHTIME LECTURE: Join Jane Perry, visiting scholar at the V&A and author of 'Traditional Jewellery in Nineteenth-century Europe', for an insight into traditional jewellery.
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