Fashion Drawing & Illustration: 1900s

Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936), fashion design, Paris, 1907. Museum no. E.1432-1957

For most of the first decade of the 20th century, fashion mainly showed seasonal modifications rather than any fundamental changes. However, as the century unfolded, the concept of the 'natural figure' banished the corseted and exaggerated S-shaped figure that was fashionable at the beginning of the decade. These innovations, a significant liberation for women, were accompanied by the introduction of strong and vibrant colours.

'Originality and Opulence': the House of Paquin

In 1890 Jeanne Paquin and her husband Isidore Paquin opened their Maison de Couture Rue de la Paix in Paris, close to the celebrated House of Worth. Paquin soon became famous for introducing coloured lining to otherwise mournful looking black coats, and for adding embellishments of lace or rich embroidery to black dresses. The innovative yet subtle use of furs became one of the house's trademarks. In an age when fashion advertising was in still in its infancy, Jeanne Paquin was the first couturier to send mannequins to the trend-setting and trend-spotting races at Longchamp and Chantilly.

In 1900 Jeanne Paquin was elected president of the Fashion Section for the Universal Exhibition and, throughout her career, many of her creations participated to those international fairs. The originality and opulence of Paquin's designs soon bolstered the international reputation of the fashion house. One of her greatest achievements was the opening of foreign branches in Buenos Aires, Madrid and London - she was the first Parisian couturier to take this step and many followed her lead. She was the first woman in her field to be awarded the Légion d'Honneur in 1913.

At Jeanne Paquin's death in 1936, the house passed into the hands of the Spanish couturier Antonio Canovas del Castillo. Paquin bought the House of Worth in 1953 but closed its doors on 1 July 1956. The V&A has a magnificent collection of Paquin sketch books, ranging from 1897 to 1956.

Jeanne Paquin - fashion design

Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936), fashion design, Paris, 1900. Museum no. E.349-1957

This is a design for a day dress for the Summer collection of 1900. The Model is wearing a sun hat and holding a parasol as was the custom for fashionable ladies at that time. The dress has a high neck, and an elaborate front decoration. This matches the diamond patterns found alongside the bottom part of the dress and the top part of the long tight sleeves. This design is an example of the dominating popular S-Bend silhouette present in fashion designs up until around 1908. In order to achieve this shape, the hips were forced backwards by the tightly laced corset worn at the waist - as a counter effect the woman's bosom was pushed forwards creating what some referred to as the pouter pigeon effect.

Jeanne Paquin - fashion design

Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936), fashion design, Paris, 1902. Museum no. E.740-1957

The pencil inscription 'Fabiola' is found in the top right hand corner of the design, this could refer to either the dress name, model or customer the dress was designed for. This outfit was designed for the winter collection 1903. This design is an example of the dominating popular S-Bend silhouette present in fashion designs up until around 1908. In order to achieve this shape, the hips were forced backwards by the tightly laced corset worn at the waist - as a counter effect the woman's bosom was pushed forwards creating what some referred to as the pouter pigeon effect.

Jeanne Paquin - fashion design

Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936), fashion design, Paris, 1904. Museum no. E.885-1957

This design was created for the Summer collection of 1904. The figure is positioned so that we can see the back of the dress and on the left corner there is a quick sketch of the front details to give the viewer a fuller understanding of the design. The design shows a highly fashionable walking dress. The light, feminine colour and the elaborate use of lace trimmings and tiers emulate contemporary lingerie techniques, considered very luxurious and daring at the time.

Jeanne Paquin - fashion design

Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936), fashion design, Paris, 1906. Museum no. E.1371-1957

This evening dress design, entitled 'Matilda', was for the winter collection of 1906. Fashion illustrators were able to create a stylised and highly fashionable 'S' shape, as shown here, with the swish of a pencil, but real women had to struggle to emulate it with long, tight corsets. Padding was worn to add fullness to the bosom and was even worn under the hair to add volume and height.

Jeanne Paquin - fashion design

Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936), fashion design, Paris, 1910. Museum no. E.1963-1957

In 1910 the Ballets Russes performed at the Theatre du Chatelet in Paris. The bold, colorful costumes, exotic set designs and general atmosphere of the show acted as a catalyst for a craze for Orientalism that greately appealed to a fashionable clientele enamoured with the rare and unusual. This evening dress was designed in 1910 and clearly shows the influence of bold colours and embroidery, and the move away from the light colours and lace trim of the preceding years.

Jeanne Paquin - fashion design

Jeanne Paquin (1869–1936), fashion design, Paris, 1908. Museum no. E.1618-1957

There is a pencil inscription 'Reginella' on the right hand side of the model. This could refer to the name of the dress, model or have some relation to a particular customer. The bottle green design is enhanced by the elaborate lace work adorning the cuffs and shoulder area of the dress. This design was created for the Summer collection 1908. This design if compared to earlier ones by Paquin, seems to show a straighter and slimmer silhouette which was becoming increasingly fashionable towards the end of the decade. The new high-waisted and shorter-skirted designs introduced by Paul Poiret were a main cause for this change. During their life time Poiret and Paquin remained fierce competitors.