Fashion Drawing & Illustration: 1940s
World War II had a profound effect on fashion and it became regulated and framed by government decrees. However, despite these strict regulations and the violent upheavals brought about by war, couture design, led by a talented group of dressmakers, flourished.
The New Look
'I designed clothes for flower-like women, with rounded shoulders, full feminine busts, and hand-span waists above enormous spreading skirts.'
It is with those words that Christian Dior (1905–57), described the impact of his first collection in the Spring of 1947. At the time, rationing was still in place and austere, military styles were worn. Dior introduced hourglass silhouettes and luxurious fabrics, softening previously boxy shoulder pads and cinching the waist for a pronounced feminine look. So popular was his first collection that it was dubbed 'the New Look' by the press and was instantly emulated by designers across the world.
1) Fashion design, by Marjorie Field for Field Rhoades, London, 1940s. Museum no. E.426-2005
1) This design by Marjorie Field depicts a woman wearing a tailored, printed suit and a large hat decorated with feathers on both sides. A double-row of buttons are sewn onto the waistline of the jacket giving an impression of a small waist. In her right hand, she holds an umbrella made out of the same material as the suit. Marjorie Field was a high-end London designer, who quickly adopted Dior's fashionable New Look silhouette into her designs.
2) Italian-born René Gruau (1909–2004) moved to Paris in 1924 and started his career as fashion illustrator in the most prestigious magazines, including L'Officiel and Marie Claire. His collaboration with Christian Dior started in 1947 and Gruau, who perfectly captured the essence of the New Look, soon became an acclaimed figure in the world of Haute Couture. This drawing was commissioned for the fashion magazine 'Femina' around 1949.
3) This is a design by Bernard Blossac (1917–2001). Blossac was a fashion illustrator, who regularly drew for Vogue, L'Officiel and Harper's Bazaar. This drawing depicts a black bolero with a floral pattern in the 'New Look' style.
2) René Gruau (1909-2004), fashion illustration, Paris, 1949. Museum no. E.397-1986
3) Bernard Blossac (1917-2001), fashion illustration, Paris or London, late 1940s. Museum no. E.167-1987
Marjorie Field
Marjorie Field (Field Rhoades), fashion design, London, 1940s. Museum no. E.430-2005
The V&A has a substantial collection of high quality designs by Marjorie Field for the couture firm Field Rhoades. The provenance of these designs can be traced back to Gwen Mandley, an artist and friend of the designer. Field Rhoades was registered in the London street directories at 77, South Audley Street, London W1 for the years 1948–49; this corresponds to the date of the designs found in this collection. Marjorie Field also designed under the name, or for the firm, 'Matita'. Matita were a high-end ready-to-wear company who regularly advertised in Vogue during the 1940s.
4) Fashion design, by Ursula Sternberg-Hertz, London, about 1947. Museum no. E.844-1989
Ursula Sternberg-Hertz
Ursula Sternberg-Hertz was a well respected painter who exhibited extensively in Europe and the US. In the 1940s, she submitted a competition entry to the Ascher textile firm in London, who were renowned for working with fine artists to create patterns and designs for silk scarves and furniture fabric. She won 3rd prize but worked for the Ascher Studio for a year and for many years as a free-lance designer.
4) This painted sketch of a fashionably dressed female figure decorates the front board of Ursula Sternberg Hertz's folder of designs for textiles and dress, oiginally submitted to Ascher as part of an entry competition. This bold and colourful board demonstrates the importance the designer gave to overall presentation. The inscriptions are in watercolour and read 'Sender Ursula Sternberg-Hertz London 30 Ch. De Boitsfort Bruxelles and Ascer Wigmore Street London'. The folder is held together with a green velvet ribbon.
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