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Fashion in Motion: Africa 2005

September 2005

Fashion in Motion is a series of live catwalk events presented at the V&A. Featuring some of the greatest designers of our time, Fashion in Motion brings catwalk couture to a wider audience by modelling it against the beautiful backdrop of the Museum.

Fashion in Motion Africa was presented as part of Friday Late Africa and featured three contemporary fashion designers working in Africa and Europe. The three designers were Lamine Badian Kouyaté, Joel Andrianomearisoa and Hassan Hajjaj whose collections were shown at the V&A's Raphael Gallery in September 2005.

Xuly Bet

Lamine Badian Kouyaté was born in Mali in 1962. Formerly trained as an architect in Paris, he turned to fashion and launched his first collection in 1989.

Working under his label Xuly Bet (“watch out” in Wolof), Lamine has created a young, urban and trendy style in which the body is moulded and idolised. He uses synthetic materials (sometimes hand-dyed in Senegal), lace, fake fur, T-shirts with provocative slogans, and the omnipresent red thread to keep track of an extravagant woman who has no inhibitions about flaunting herself.

Using the African tradition of recycling garments, he creates reknitted jumpers, dresses made of patchworked and painted T-shirts, and recycled army coats lined with fake fluorescent fur.

Lamine Youyaté was awarded with the prestigious Creator of the Year Award in 1994 by the New York Times and received the ANDAM Awards in 1996. His label is sold in Europe, America, Africa and Asia.

Joel Andrianmearisoa

Joel Andrianomearisoa was born in Antananarivo, Madagascar, in 1977. He entered the Fashion Academy of Antananarivo at the age of twelve. The first presentation of his fashion designs took place in 1995. He has been studying architecture at Paris University since 1998.

For his fashion collections, Joel experiments with materials like wood, metal, stone and plastics, ones usually associated with sculpture rather than fashion design. He applies the concept of 'archi-couture', using geometrical and radical forms and creating object-garments, mostly black. He also uses unusual and exclusive woven materials.

In 1996, he was distinguished as Young Talent '96. In 2000 he staged performances at the Centre Georges Pompidou and the Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris. He lives and works in Madagascar and Paris, where he designs costumes and scenery for theatre, film and television.

Hassan Hajjaj

Hassan Hajjaj was born in Larache, Morocco, in 1961. Having arrived in Britain in his teens, he grew up amid the emerging club culture of London, absorbing the music and styles of reggae, hip hop and worldmusic. In 1984 he decided to forge a solid relationship with the New York scene and in the same year he launched his own clothing and accessories label, RAP.

In his work, Hassan Hajjaj playfully applies new technologies to redefine the imagery that pervaded his childhood. From the fez to the camel, he takes on the European stereotypes of the North African world and turns them into a visual celebration of the 'souk with a twist'.

Hassan Hajjaj designed the stunning Salon Afrique interiors that graced the Royal Festival Hall during Africa Remix.

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