'The Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove', fukusa, Japan, 1850-1900. Museum no. T.197-1963

Fukusa depicting 'The Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove', Japan, 1850-1900. Silk satin embroidered with coloured silks & metal threads. Museum no. T.197-1963

This Japanese gift cover came to Britain as the result of a misunderstanding.

The cover, called a 'fukusa' in Japanese, was made in the second half of the 19th century. Traditionally in Japan, gifts were placed in a box on a tray, over which a beautifully embroidered or decorated fukusa was draped, concealing the gift.  After being suitably admired, the fukusa, along with its box and tray, was returned to the giver and only the presents retained. The choice of a fukusa appropriate to the occasion was an important part of the gift-giving ritual.

The richness of the decoration was an indication of the donor’s wealth and the quality of the design evidence of their taste and sensibility. This satin fukusa is embroidered in the yatsuzuma style, using silk and metallic threads. It depicts the Seven Sages, a group of Chinese Taoist philosophers who gathered in a bamboo grove to talk and drink.

This is one of a group of fukusa acquired by the Victoria and Albert Museum in 1963. They belonged to a Mrs Farmer who, as a three year old, had travelled with her mother to Japan, to visit her tea merchant father. According to papers in the V&A’s archives, the Meiji emperor, having never seen such a young European child, asked for the family to be formally presented at the palace.

'The Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove', fukusa, Japan, 1850-1900, detail. Museum no. T.197-1963

Detail of Fukusa depticting 'The Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove', Japan, 1850-1900, detail. Museum no. T.197-1963

Following the visit a number of gifts, each covered with a fukusa, were sent to the tea merchant’s house. The mother, unaware of the Japanese custom of gift-giving, kept the fukusa instead of returning them.

When the father arrived home he was horrified by this cultural faux pas and, deeply embarrassed, tried to return the fukusa to the Imperial palace. The emperor was obviously not offended, however, for the family were told they could keep them.

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

14 March – 2 August 2015. The V&A is delighted to announce that it will present Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty in London in spring 2015. The first and largest retrospective of the late designer’s work to be presented in Europe, the exhibition will showcase McQueen’s visionary body of work.

Visit the V&A exhibition Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty