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The point in the centre back of the collar first appeared in men's dress in the late 1770s. The pale, salmon colour and simple decoration of this hand-sewn silk coat are a new development in fashion, in contrast to the rich palette and ornate embroidery of the 1750s and 1760s. An ivory and yellow striped grosgrain forms the ground of the ribbon, embellished with additional threads of silver strip and thread. This narrow trim edges the collar, cuffs, pleats and front of the coat. At the back pleat, it has been expertly mitred to reinforce the top of the pleat and to form a decorative ground for the button. Interwoven threads of pink silk, silver-gilt filé (textured thread) and silver strip form the base of the button, with silver spangles (sequins) sewn on top.

Museum No. T.363-1995

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