Japanese street style: Sweet Lolita
Sweet Lolita is the most instantly recognisable and widespread of the Lolita looks. It is also the earliest, having its origins in the old-fashioned, little-girl image marketed in the 1980s by companies such as Pink House and Shirley Temple. Its subsequent popularity owes much to the boutique chain Baby, The Stars Shine Bright, which opened its first shop in 1988. Dolls, cuddly toys and references to Victorian children’s literature, most notably Alice in Wonderland, are key characteristics of the look.
Sweet Lolitas at the V&A, May 2012
Innocent World
Innocent World is an Osaka-based design house founded by Yumi Fujiwara. The clothing is sometimes Sweet Lolita and at other times, as with the relatively sober outfit displayed here, what is called Classic Lolita. The company’s concept statement speaks of ‘elegance and cuteness’ and of ‘a simple world without dirt or blemish’ that reflects ‘the pure and innocent hearts of young women’.
Baby, The Stars Shine Bright
Baby, The Stars Shine Bright was established in Tokyo in 1988 by Akinori and Fumiyo Isobe. Its clothes are regarded as the epitome of the Sweet Lolita look. The company was launched to fame by the 2004 screen adaptation of Novala Takemoto’s novel Shimotsuma Monogatari, in which the heroine dresses throughout in outfits by BTSSB. The film was re-released with English subtitles as Kamikaze Girls.
Alice and the Pirates
Alice and the Pirates is the sub-brand of Baby, The Stars Shine Bright. It was launched in 2004 to cater to a growing demand for Gothic and Punk inspired clothing. The overall effect is still sweet, but there is a dark edginess to it. The combination of Alice (Alice in Wonderland) and Pirates (Vivienne Westwood’s 1981 Pirate Collection) in the brand name is revealing.
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