King Phillip costume by unknown designer for 'Don Carlos', 1950

There are several rules in making theatrical costume which can be broken by a skillful designer and costumier. One is not to use either dead black or white on stage. Black can create a flat 'black hole' or can disappear into the shadows, whereas white can flare and draw the eye.

Sometimes, however, black is impossible to avoid. King Philip in Verdi's opera 'Don Carlos' has to wear black, and the costume designer has to find a way to break up an area of unrelieved colour.

The costume made for the great bass singer Boris Christoff as King Philip, is of the highest quality satin and velvet, which play against each other, creating a textural variety under the lights. The satin strips are decorated with a flower pattern executed in black and gold, which would catch the light while breaking up the pattern more effectively than embroidery and giving a lighter effect than heavy goldwork.

Christoff was one of the last major international opera stars who had his own theatrical wardrobe. This meant that his costume could be out of keeping with the production design, but from the 1950s to 1970s operas, such as 'Don Carlos' or 'Boris Godunov', were traditionally played in the historical dress appropriate to their periods; Christoff's carefully period costumes would therefore fit into most productions in opera houses around the world.

Museum no. S.2872-1986