Viola costume by Norman Wilkinson for 'Twelfth Night', 1912

Harley Granville Barker's production of 'Twelfth Night' in 1912 was one of a trio of his productions that helped revolutionise attitudes to Shakespearean production and design in the early 20th centuy. The bright colours and relative simplicity of the designs by Norman Wilkinson were in complete contrast to the detailed, often cumbersome productions that were the legacy of 19th-century realism. The effect of this coat over the black and green doublet and breeches must have been spectacular to an audience used to the genteel tones of most Edwardian fashion. The severe simplicity was also in contrast to the frills and froth of many dresses of the period.

This costume, worn by Lillah McCarthy at the Savoy Theatre, London, combines doublet and breeches in one, making it comfortable and easy to move in. It was also equally flattering to the male and female figure; necessary not only because Viola spends much of the play masquerading as a boy, but because her twin brother, Sebastian, also has to wear a costume of the same design.

The costume is also of great extravagance. This fits in with Viola being the embassy of a rich lord paying court to his beloved. The doublet and breeches were made of 8 yards of black silk costing £1.11s.4d (about £111.15p at 2008 prices), 12 yards of green silk costing 18s.00d (about £63 at 2008 prices); to dye the 6 pieces braid cost 13s.6d (about £48 at 2008 prices). The coat required 5 5/6 yards of a magnificent silver and white brocade which cost £11.13s.4d (about £830 at 2008 prices), plus the cost of the superb brilliant pink lining. The total cost of Viola's costumes was £35.10.7d (about £2520 at 2008 prices).

Museum no. S.1357-1984