MCQUEEN AND PHOTOGRAPHY

'[McQueen’s] 1992 MA show included portraits of women collaged onto full, distressed-fabric skirts. Dante (Autumn/Winter 1996), the collection that centred on religion as the cause of war, featured garments photo-printed with Don McCullin’s documentary pictures from war-torn Vietnam. Many of the photographs McQueen appropriated were intended to provoke a reaction or make a political point. Joan (Autumn/Winter 1998), partly inspired by the murders of Joan of Arc in 1431 and of the Russian Imperial Romanov family in 1918, included portraits of the innocent, unsmiling Romanov children on tailored jackets and tops, overprinted onto clear sequins which made the images flicker and shimmer as if beneath a watery surface, visible but somehow out of reach. In Dante, other nineteenth-century portraits were printed onto high-collared cotton jersey coats, this time studies of a colony for the blind. Contemporary photographs were also incorporated into designs: a scarf made for i-D magazine’s project opposing the Iraq War included two photographs of Prime Minister Tony Blair. McQueen christened the scarf ‘Two Face’ and intended it as an expression of his political disappointment. When one begins to look for them, one can discover references – both direct and discreet – to well-known photographs in all of McQueen’s collections'