'When I started a men's line in Paris, my message was very simple: let's be outside of this. Let's be far from our suits and ties. Let's be far from businessmen. Let's be vagabonds'.
The menswear silhouette Yohji Yamamoto introduced from the mid 1980s onwards - loose black suit jacket, wide trousers and white T-shirt - became almost a uniform for the well-dressed man in the creative industries.