Museum no. T.150-1970
Quilting by hand was a time-consuming method of decoration. The increased demand for quilted petticoats, waistcoats and pockets led to the invention of woven quilting. In this technique, an extra weft of thick thread was added to the fabric to give the raised effect of the handmade version. Robert Elsden is credited as the first inventor of woven quilting, known by the French term, matelassé.
This is an example of matelassé linen, which has been clearly woven in a pocket shape and could not be sewn into any other object. It may represent a 'ready-made' pocket, one sewn up and sold as a finished accessory, rather than made at home.