Design for embroidery for a petticoat and open gown, 1782–94. Museum no. E.237-1973.

Design for embroidery for a petticoat and open gown, 1782–94. Museum no. E.237-1973.

Design for embroidery for a petticoat and open gown
England
1782–94
Bequeathed by Raymond Johnes
Museum no. E.237-1973

The pinholes, not following the lines of the design but scattered all over the sheet, suggest that the design was once pinned to a piece of muslin or gauze on a round tambour frame. The vertical design is similar to that on a white muslin gown of about 1800 displayed in the British Galleries (Room 120).

Two designs for embroidered borders to petticoats and open gowns, 1780s. Museum no. E.246-1973

Two designs for embroidered borders to petticoats and open gowns, 1780s. Museum no. E.246-1973

Two designs for embroidered borders to petticoats and open gowns
England
1780s
Pen and ink on laid paper; with fold marks
Inscribed in pen and ink on the back,‘I have not worked these but I thought mayhaps you might like them – Return all when you Have done with them’
Bequeathed by Raymond Johnes
Museum no. E.246-1973

Here, the inscription and fold marks indicate that the design was sent out. The design at the bottom has a pointed edge known at the period as ‘Vandyke scollop’, after costume in portraits by the 17th-century painter Anthony van Dyck.

Design for embroidery for an apron for Miss Thrale, Anonymous

Design for embroidery for an apron for Miss Thrale, Anonymous, 1788. Museum no. E.227-1973

Design for embroidery for an apron for Miss Thrale
Anonymous
England
1788
Pen and ink on laid paper
Bequeathed by Raymond Johnes
Museum no. E.227-1973

Miss Thrale was Hester Thrale (1764–1857), known as ‘Queeney’. Her father was a wealthy brewer and her mother the celebrated and clever Mrs Thrale, a friend of Dr Samuel Johnson, the author and lexicographer.

Design for embroidery for an apron, Anonymous. Museum number E.228-1973

Design for embroidery for an apron, Anonymous. Museum number E.228-1973

Design for embroidery for an apron
Anonymous
England
Pen and ink on laid paper
Bequeathed by Raymond Johnes
Museum number E.228-1973

The similarity of the seaweed-like pattern on this design and that for Miss Thrale's apron shows that one pattern-drawer, or perhaps an assistant in the same workshop, designed both.

Design for embroidery for a border to a petticoat and open gown, Anonymous. Museum number E.261-1973

Design for embroidery for a border to a petticoat and open gown, Anonymous. Museum number E.261-1973

Design for embroidery for a border to a petticoat and open gown
England
1780s
Pen and ink on laid paper
Bequeathed by Raymond Johnes
Museum no. E.261-1973

The front edge of the paper has been sewn onto a backing sheet to strengthen it. This, and the many pinholes, suggests that the design must have been used many times. The grid of pinholes shows how the design was tacked to muslin or gauze on a tambour frame.

Petticoat to, or panel from the skirt of

Petticoat to, or panel from the skirt of, an open gown, England, 1789s, Private collector

Petticoat to, or panel from the skirt of, an open gown (detail)
England
1780's
Embroidered in chain stitch, in coloured silks, with drawnwork on muslin
Private collector

Design for embroidery for a petticoat and open gown, or for an apron

Design for embroidery for a petticoat and open gown, or for an apron, 1780s. Museum no. E.269-1973

Design for embroidery for a petticoat and open gown, or for an apron
England
1780s
Pen and ink on laid paper
Bequeathed by Raymond Johnes
Museum no. E.269-1973

This design closely resembles another in the London archive. Presumably both are the work of the same pattern drawer.

Design for a petticoat to an open gown, Anonymous

Design for a petticoat to an open gown, Anonymous, 1789. Museum numbers E.230-231-1973

Design for a petticoat to an open gown
Anonymous
England
1789
Pen and ink on laid paper, stitched with two different types of thread
Inscribed in pen and ink on the back,‘Mrs Henry Foster worked in Purple silk in Cobble stich for a petticoat to a white Gause gown July 5th–1789’
Bequeathed by Raymond Johnes
Museum numbers E.230-231-1973

The inscription may suggest that Mrs Henry Foster was a professional embroiderer, and that the workshop was noting the technique used by one employee to instruct another. Alternatively, it may mean that she was an amateur who had once hired the pattern, and that it was now on loan to someone else who needed further guidance.

Designs for embroidered borders to aprons, 1780s. Museum no. E.251-1973

Designs for embroidered borders to aprons, 1780s. Museum no. E.251-1973

Designs for embroidered borders to aprons
Anonymous
England
Pen and ink on laid paper
Bequeathed by Raymond Johnes
Museum number E.251-1973

There are two designs on this sheet of paper arranged with one at each end. The borders are for the right-angled corners of aprons with scalloped edges.

Design for embroidery for a petticoat and open gown, or for an apron

Design for embroidery for a petticoat and open gown, or for an apron, Anonymous. Museum number E.252-1973

Design for embroidery for a petticoat and open gown, or for an apron
Anonymous
England
Pen and ink on laid paper
Bequeathed by Raymond Johnes
Museum no. E.252-1973

The design is unfinished at one end but the repeat indicates that it continues to the borderless edge. The skilful drawing of the repeat suggests that the design is the work of a professional pattern drawer.

Design for an embroidered border for a petticoat and open gown, 1780s. Museum no. E.257-1973

Design for an embroidered border for a petticoat and open gown, 1780s. Museum no. E.257-1973

Design for an embroidered border for a petticoat and open gown
England
1780s
Pen and ink on wove paper
Bequeathed by Raymond Johnes
Museum no. E.257-1973

The undulating stem with leaves along the top of the design is similar to one published in 'The Fashionable Magazine' (‘Pattern for a Train, Drawn by Mr Styart’, plate iv, vol. 1, 1786).