niya, silk road, stein collection, asia
Weft beater, 100-300 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.530 (N.XIII.iii.003).
Weft beater
Central Asia
100-300 AD
Wood
Length 24.2 cm x width 9 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.530 (N.XIII.iii.003)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India
Several weft beaters or wooden combs have been discovered at the Niya and Mazar-toghrak sites in Khotan and neighbouring Loulan. These would have been used to beat down the weft when weaving woollen textiles such as tapestries, rugs or carpets. There was a thriving rug making industry in Khotan, as shown by the frequent mention of Khotanese rugs and carpets in contemporary documents. We also know that carpets and rugs were used in the local currency system, for example could a nice carpet pay for a camel or even a woman.
Fragment of matting, 100-300 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.191 (N.008).
Fragment of matting
Central Asia
100-300 AD
Plant fibre matting
Length 25 cm x width 18 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.191 (N.008)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India
This decorative matting is made from split rush plant in a zigzag pattern. It could have been used as floor covering.
Hat, 100-300 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.678 (N.XIV.004).
Hat (Textiles - Room 98, Case 3)
Central Asia
100-300 AD
Felted wool
Length 39.3 cm x width 33.5 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.678 (N.XIV.004)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India
This nifty little hat is made of felted yellow wool, resembling a seaman’s sou’wester hat. The crown comprises five gored pieces of felt stitched to a brim made up of two panels. Stein found it in a badly eroded structure which had been used as rubbish tip and extended over 16.15 meter by 15.24 meter.
The hat would have been a welcome protection against the biting wind in the wintry desert.
Fragment of fur, 100-300 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.182 (N.XIV.iii.002).
Fragment of fur
Central Asia
100-300 AD
Furred leather
Length 25 cm x width 10 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.182 (N.XIV.iii.002)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India
This strip of fur, with hair still covering one end and adhering also in a few scattered patches, might once have been part of a warming fur garment or cover. There are stitch marks along upper edge for the attachment of another strip, part of which remains and in the middle of the piece, three holes have been cut, one above the other. An analysis has shown that the skin comes from a medium-sized domestic dog.
Fragment of garment, 100-300 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.184 (N.XXIV.viii.001).
Fragment of garment
Central Asia
100-300 AD
Plain weave in wool
Length 38 cm x width 11 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.184 (N.XXIV.viii.001)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India
This textile fragment is of plain woven buff wool, gathered into a band of the same fabric, which has been folded over and stitched. At one end of the piece, strips of stitched plain woven red wool and a small ball of cream thread have been attached. Based on more complete finds from this area, it is possible that this is the top of a pair of trousers or a skirt.
Stein discovered this torn piece of fabric in the ruins of a large residence with several rooms and a courtyard or garden, perhaps belonging to a well-to-do person. It was found in room eight, where also a large cache of Kharosthi documents were found, most of which were deeds of sale. Kharosthi is the written Gandhari language unique to Central Asia.
Pattern woven wool, 100-300 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.631 (N.XXIV.viii.003).
Pattern woven wool (Textiles - Room 98, Case 3)
Central Asia
100-300 AD
Patterned weave in wool
Length 17 cm x height 7 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.631 (N.XXIV.viii.003)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India
This textile piece of polychrome pattern woven wool has a white ground with a repeating lozenge design in dark red. With this piece, there are also the remains of a small section in red yellow and blue. It was probably once used as a rug or decorative hanging. Stein found this fragment of pattern woven wool in one of the many rooms of a large residence. Most of the finds from this particular room were double wooden tablets in Kharosthi script, indicating that it had been used as an office for the well-to-do person living there. A wooden mouse-trap was also discovered in the room, so affluent people had pest-problems too.
Fragment of felt, 100-300 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.519 (N.XIV.iii.006.c).
Fragment of felt
Central Asia
100-300 AD
Felted wool, appliqué
Length 16.4 cm x width 9.8 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.519 (N.XIV.iii.006.c)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India
This fragment of felt is made of natural coloured wool on which is sewn a curling design in felted red wool. Felt is a non-woven cloth that is produced by matting, condensing and pressing wool fibres. While some types of felt are very soft, some are tough enough to form construction material, such as yurts of the nomads. Wool from camel, yak, sheep or goat hair could be used. Felt was a Silk Road staple and the best one was produced in Khotan.