Garment fragments, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.205 (L.C.ii.07.b).

Garment fragments, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.205 (L.C.ii.07.b).

Garment fragments
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Plain weave in silk and wool and patterned weave in silk
Length 28.5 cm x Width 14.4 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.205 (L.C.ii.07.b)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

These fragments probably once made up a garment, perhaps dressing the dead or as a gift for the afterlife. They include a layered piece of plain woven red wool, backed with plain woven buff silk, most of which is visible through deterioration of the wool layer. Stitched to the wool are strips of polychrome patterned weave silk, one in orange and blue, one in cream and blue, both showing unidentified designs and a third piece showing a repeating interlocking lozenge design interspersed with circles in blue and pink on a cream ground. It is interesting to note that, as in several other world cultures, the importance of being buried with luxury objects, such as silk, is evident in Loulan burial grounds.

Garment fragments, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.207 (L.C.i.02.a-b).

Garment fragments, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.207 (L.C.i.02.a-b).

Garment fragments
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Plain weave in cotton, patterned weave in silk and wool felt
Length 42 cm x Width 30 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.207 (L.C.i.02.a-b)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

These two textile fragments consist of layers of plain woven plant fibre, perhaps cotton, padded with wool felt. The larger piece has remains of a silk band edged with patterned Han silk. It is likely that the pieces once made up a garment. No complete garment has yet been recovered from the Loulan grave pits but discoveries in other burial sites suggest that a certain type of garment dominated in the region. This style of caftan was well cut with tight sleeves cut separately and seamed in, usually with sleeve and side gores. It was made of wool or cotton, often with silk edgings. This type of clothing represents a predominantly male garment that originated in the Eurasian steppe world and became very popular in Central Asia. However, sometimes the lapels were closing on the proper right as in Chinese fashion. It seems like the garments were of nomad origin, but with influences from Chinese clothing.

Silk with rams, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.214 (L.C.i.010).

Silk with rams, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.214 (L.C.i.010).

Silk with rams
China
200-400 AD
Warp-faced compound plain weave in silk
Length 6.6 cm x Width 3 cm (largest fragment)
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.214 (L.C.i.010)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

The design on these two small fragments suggests a Western influence on Chinese silk production. The fragments are of warp-faced compound plain weave with continuous silk fibre with little or no twist, which identifies the making as traditional Chinese. However, the two confronting rams with twisted bodies within lozenge compartments are more in line with Western decoration of the time.

Taquete fragment, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.229 (L.A.IV.v.002).

Taquete fragment, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.229 (L.A.IV.v.002).

Taquete fragment
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Weft-faced compound weave in wool
Length 14.4 cm x Width 11.2 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.229 (L.A.IV.v.002)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

This colourful taquete fragment was found in one of the rooms of a large dwelling within the walled garrison town of Loulan. Based on several finds of Kharosthi records, Stein was convinced that the ruined dwelling had been the residence of a non-Chinese official belonging to the indigenous administration of the territory. Wool taquete fabrics were probably used as furnishings, such as decorative bed covers. A similar taquete fragment has recently been found in the Yingpan cemetery, about 200 kilometres to the east of Loulan.

Red silk fragment, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.231 (L.A.VI.ii.0045.b).

Red silk fragment, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.231 (L.A.VI.ii.0045.b).

Red silk fragment
China
200-400 AD
Warp-faced compound weave
Length 5.7 cm x Width 4.2 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.231 (L.A.VI.ii.0045.b)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

Stein discovered in one of the refuse pits within the garrison of Loulan, the only silk within the residential area of Loulan, showing small-scale classic Han period patterning of cloud scrolls. The apparent lack of luxury textiles, such as pattern woven silks is probably due to residents taking the precious silks with them when moving. Recent dye analysis revealed that the red dye contained only the compound purpurin and no alizarin which suggests that something other than usual Madder plant was used. The only known species today that contain purpurin, but no alizarin, is the plant Relbunium from South America and similar plants might therefore once have grown in south-western Xinjiang.

Shoe, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.71 (L.A.VI.ii.0030.a).

Shoe, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.71 (L.A.VI.ii.0030.a).

Shoe
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Cut and stitched leather
Length 25 cm x Width 13 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.71 (L.A.VI.ii.0030.a)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

This is a complete shoe of buff leather for the right foot, albeit a bit squashed through time. The upper has been made in two pieces, one forming the vamp and the other the quarters. There are marks along the opening of the shoe where probably some binding or decoration was once fastened. The sole is of single thickness and today broken. The shoe was excavated from a refuse heap outside a dwelling within the Loulan station. The dwelling had been relatively large containing several rooms. Stein believed, due to its size and several administrative documents in Kharosthi, that the owner had been a non-Chinese official belonging to the indigenous administration of the territory.

Rope, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.83 (L.A.VI.ii.0033.a-b).

Rope, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.83 (L.A.VI.ii.0033.a-b).

Rope
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Twisted grass and leather
Length 25 cm x Width 6.5 cm (as seen)
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.83 (L.A.VI.ii.0033.a-b)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

These two lengths of rope are made of grass and leather strips respectively. The rope of twisted grass has been doubled back on itself and knotted at intervals, giving it a chain-like appearance. The rope of leather has one strip doubled upon itself to give two strands while another strip is giving the third. Ropes have a multitude of functions, everything from keeping animals bound to carrying objects. They were found together in one of the many refuse heaps within the walled garrison town of Loulan.

Carpet fragment, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.534 (L.B.IV.ii.0013).

Carpet fragment, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.534 (L.B.IV.ii.0013).

Carpet fragment
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Knotted pile and tapestry weave in wool
Length 17.7 cm x Width 11 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.534 (L.B.IV.ii.0013)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

This fragment of woollen pile carpet is tapestry woven in red and blue wool on coarse wool warp with rows of knots of cream coloured wool. The tapestry woven base show a geometrical pattern and it is likely that this was the side up with the tufts placed down. The tufts may have been to prevent the textile slipping on a smooth floor or to provide extra warmth when used as bed cover. The fragment was found in a room of a ruined house which Stein believed originally have had some sort of clerical use, due to the presence of Kharosthi documents, waxed tablets and seal-cases.

Carpet fragments, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.540 (L.A.I.ii.001).

Carpet fragments, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.540 (L.A.I.ii.001).

Carpet fragments
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Knotted pile and plain weave in wool
Length 28 cm x Width 18.6 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.540 (L.A.I.ii.001)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

Carpets and rugs are mentioned in 3rd to the 4th century documents as given in payment or part-payment for a wide variety of wares, from women to camels. Finds of wooden weft beaters linked with pile making or tapestry weaving undoubtedly show that these types of textiles were produced locally. The symmetrical closed knot, or the Ghiordes knot, had generally been used in the making of the ancient pile carpets. Today, the Persian knot is used almost exclusively in the Xinjiang region.
The fragments of the carpet seen here are too small to reveal its original design, but seem to have been highly decorative and colourful. On the back, there are remains of rows of long cream-coloured woollen tufts, consisting of two wool yarns slipped around the warp without being knotted. This would have prevented the carpet slipping on a smooth surface or added warmth to a bed-cover. It was found in a corner of a room in a ruined dwelling Stein suggested may once have belonged to a petty local head-man or representative of the indigenous administration of Loulan.

Shoe fragments, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.58 (L.B.IV.ii.0014).

Shoe fragments, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.58 (L.B.IV.ii.0014).

Shoe fragments
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Twining in silk
Length 24 cm x Width 5 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.58 (L.B.IV.ii.0014)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

This bundle of strips used to be a shoe upper. It was made in the twining method, where the silk thread is twined / wrapped around a warp, probably of hemp. Two sets of coloured silks, here blue and red, were twined and changed in position for patterning a chevron band. A similar but complete shoe is in the collection of the British Museum, which was found in the same office room of a ruined house in Loulan as this one. Similar shoes are often found in Chinese tombs located in the Gansu province.

Rainbow wool, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.585 (L.C.v.04).

Rainbow wool, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.585 (L.C.v.04).

Rainbow wool
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Twill weave in wool
Length 5 cm x Width 4.8 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.585 (L.C.v.04)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

This tiny fragment is still radiant with the colours of the rainbow. The twill woven wool is striped in purple, orange, yellow, yellow-green, dark green and red. It is similar to textile fragments found in Niya, where the textile has been used as footwear.

Taquete fragment, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.596 (L.A.IV.004).

Taquete fragment, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.596 (L.A.IV.004).

Taquete fragment (Textiles - Room 98, Case 3)
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Weft-faced compound weave in wool
Length 32 cm x Width 18 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.596 (L.A.IV.004)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

The majority of the textiles discovered within the walled garrison town of Loulan were made of wool. This is a fragment of patterned wool, called taquete, which is a weft-faced compound plain weave and due to its sturdiness might have been used as furnishing. This weave might have been an imitation of jin silk, a warp-faced compound silk produced in China. Some scholars suggest that these types of woollen weaves were made in the Western Regions along the Silk Road, most probably in Bactria or Gandhara.

Wool tapestry, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.597 (L.A.VI.ii.0045.a).

Wool tapestry, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.597 (L.A.VI.ii.0045.a).

Wool tapestry (Textiles - Room 98, Case 3)
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Tapestry weave in wool
Length 20.1cm x Width 14.2 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.597 (L.A.VI.ii.0045.a)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

This piece of tapestry woven wool show bands in red, pale pink, white, pale blue, blue and broader bands of red. These latter bands have additional decorations in contrasting colours, which are worked in dovetail tapestry technique. This woven wool fragment reminded Stein of Indian durries, traditional cotton tapestry-woven floor coverings. It is possible that the textile was originally used as a floor or bed covering. It was found in one of the many refuse heaps within the walled garrison city of Loulan. Tapestry weave is a technique that does not yet seem to be utilised in China. The first true silk tapestry is found in Astana tombs, dated around 687 AD.

Silk with Chinese characters, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.630 (L.C.031.a).

Silk with Chinese characters, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.630 (L.C.031.a).

Silk with Chinese characters
China
200-400 AD
Warp-faced compound plain weave in silk
Length 21cm x Width 6.8 cm (largest fragment)
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.630 (L.C.031.a)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

The site called L.C. by Stein is an elevated area of land or a mesa, located 6.9 km to the northeast of Loulan city and was most likely the burial grounds for the inhabitants. Several of the famous Han period silks were discovered in the tombs. The polychrome warp-faced compound plain weave comprises designs in brilliant colours of mountain-shaped clouds, birds, dragons and other menacing looking creatures and woven Chinese characters integrated with the other motifs. They are probably the most important group of Han silks with a style so different from any other contemporary silk groups. The woven characters are dedicatory or considered lucky and consist generally of about four to twelve characters . This piece shown here is comparable to a recent find, now in the Xinjiang Institute of Archaeology, showing birds and beasts and with the characters of eternal prosperity.

Carpet fragment (front and rear view), 150 BC–60 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.647 (L.C.ii.09.a).

Carpet fragment (front and rear view), 150 BC–60 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.647 (L.C.ii.09.a).

Carpet fragment (front and rear view)
Central Asia
150 BC-60 AD
Carpet weave in wool
Length 30.7 cm x Width 13.4 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.647 (L.C.ii.09.a)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

This colourful and well-preserved fragment of woollen pile carpet has been radiocarbon dated to 150 BC-60 AD, to the beginning of Han Chinese occupation of Loulan. The warp is made of goat hair and hairy medium fleece type wool mix while the rows of knots in brown, pink, red, pale green and green, yellow, pale blue and blue wool are of hairy medium fleece type. The fragment shows a section across several bands of design, including a narrow border of single hook motif.

It was found in one of the grave pits outside the town of Loulan, and from evidence of other complete burials in neighbouring oasis towns; it is possible that the carpet was used as a shroud. From these finds, it appears that the carpets were already used and worn when they were put into the grave.

Floral embroidery on red silk, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.650 (L.C.vii.004).

Floral embroidery on red silk, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.650 (L.C.vii.004).

Floral embroidery on red
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Plain weave in silk and silk embroidery
Length 7.4 cm x Width 6.7 cm (largest fragment)
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.650 (L.C.vii.004)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

These fragments of plain woven red silk have been embroidered with floral patterns in blue, brown and buff. The embroidery was originally lined with a plain woven brown silk. The pattern is fairly large so the embroidery could have been used as furnishings, and there are examples of embroidered cushion covers in other comparable burials.

Bundle of felt, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.68 (L.B.IV.v.0011).

Bundle of felt, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.68 (L.B.IV.v.0011).

Bundle of felt
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Felted wool
Length 18.5 cm x Width 6.5 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.68 (L.B.IV.v.0011)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

Life in the oasis towns of the Taklamakan was most likely rather harsh at times, and all produce could come of use in one way or another and therefore saved. Here, narrow strip cuttings from white felt have been saved and tied together. However, the cut-offs were never used and Stein found them within the ruins of a house at Loulan site B.

Leather cover, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.74 (L.B.IV.v.0025).

Leather cover, 200-400 AD. Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.74 (L.B.IV.v.0025).

Leather cover
Central Asia
200-400 AD
Tanned leather
Diameter 17 cm
Museum no. LOAN:STEIN.74 (L.B.IV.v.0025)
On loan from Government of India and the Archaeological Survey of India

This leather piece has an impressed circular shape which reveals its last use as cover tied over a pot or a similar object. It is slightly discoloured with a light red tone inside. The leather cover was discovered in the ruins of a house about a mile from a Buddhist shrine. The architectural features, such as decorative wood-carvings in quasi-classical style, were particularly well-preserved.