Modified, homemade
and secondhand clothing was an expression of individuality during the
1960s. Britain was known for the strength of its youth
cults like the mods and the rockers. The mods, an abbreviation for 'Modernists',
prided themselves on their sophisticated outlook. They were interested
in American soul and R 'n B music as well stylish clothing, especially
Italian tailoring. They paid great attention to their
appearance, favouring mohair suits in streamlined shapes. In mod culture
the trendsetters known as 'faces' invented the styles copied by other
youngsters.
However, there were few shops selling attractive clothing for ordinary
young people. Aspiring designers like Mary Quant and John Stephen had
to set up their own business to make and sell the clothes
they wanted to wear. It was smart, minimal mod dress which originally
inspired the look they marketed. Combined with bright colours,
these clothes set the agenda for the pop styles worn by youth.
France had its own 'stylistes' like Emmanuelle Khanh and Sonia Rykiel
producing ready-to-wear clothing. In the US, Betsey Johnson ran the hip
New York boutique Paraphernalia. The inventive designer Rudi Gernreich
introduced the West Coast to vinyl clothing and the 'monokini',
a topless bathing suit.
Another important Californian contribution came from the hippy movement,
which introduced an 'alternative' lifestyle and politics. The hippy look was
associated with colourful antique and
ethnic clothing. The idea was to mix and match items from different eras
and cultures. Admirers of the style wore their hair long, went barefoot or garbed in sandals and sometimes
painted their faces and bodies. |
