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Production Clothing
In the 1920s a number of Modernist designers, artists and architects set out to devise an appropriate dress for the new era in which they were living. Some male architects thought that the traditional tailored suit, particularly the English suit, expressed the very principles of simplicity, standardisation and lack of ornament that also applied to contemporary architecture. Others, like the spiritually oriented Bauhaus teacher Johannes Itten, adopted a kind of monastic robe. There was, however, a category of dress that evoked the idea of the factory and identified the wearer as a worker or technocrat. It was based on either the technician’s jacket or, more commonly, the boiler suit or overall.
 
Rodchenko’s single-piece overall was made by his wife Varvara Stepanova, and shortly afterwards she published an article in which she described it as ‘prozodezhda’ or production clothing. It presented Rodchenko as a worker, dressed in an everyday garment that would in theory be familiar to many and would suggest the forward-looking, technological agenda of Modernism. As a workers’ uniform, it also suggested the collective nature of Soviet society.

The garment was made of stiff wool. This suited the climate of the Soviet Union but also the design, in which the pattern pieces were geometric in form rather than close fitting. All the edges that would get wear were trimmed in leather.

The design was an experimental one and, like so many Soviet designs, was never put into production, owing to the lack of resources in the difficult economic circumstances of the post-revolutionary period.

Production clothing (shirt and trousers)
Alexander Rodchenko (1891-1956)
Russia
About 1922 (this version made by Aoi Morishita 2005; based on Rodchenko Room Project (2003), Museum of Modern Ceramic Art, Gifu, Japan)
Woven wool with leather trim
Trousers, waist to hem 105 cm, inside waist 85 cm
Shirt, collar to hem 79 cm, chest 134 cm
Museum no. T.40:1, 2-2005
Click on the image to see an enlarged version

Image 1

Production clothing (shirt and trousers)
Alexander Rodchenko (1891-1956)
Russia
About 1922
Ink and colour pencil on paper
35.5 x 33 cm
Private Collection
© Rodchenko and Stepanova Archive 

Click on the image to see an enlarged version
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Modernism: Designing A New World 1914 - 19396 April - 23 July 2006sponsored by Habitat
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