Embracing the punk ethos of borrowing symbols and clothing styles from other sub-cultural 'tribes', such as Rockers, Skinheads and Psychedelics, Westwood and McClaren created some of the most innovative designs of the punk movement.
The quintessential punk outfit was a pair of bondage trousers worn with a T-shirt sloganed with an obscenity. The bondage trousers had a skirt-like apron and straps around both legs. Originally made in towelling, the skirt-like apron was inspired by the loincloths worn by primitive tribesmen. The straps were inspired by fetish clothing and symbolised the frustrating immobility felt by the poor, disenfranchised youth. Zippers at the crotch was another detail inspired by S&M clothing.

Punk Outfit
Cotton with metal zips and rings
British, Vivienne Westwood
'Seditionaries' label, 1977

During the mid- to late-1970's, Vivienne Westwood, in collaboration with Malcolm McClaren, was instrumental in creating and developing the punk 'look'. She shaped the Sex Pistols image, marketed under the label 'SEX' and later 'Seditionaries'.

 

 

 

 

Punk style reflected an aggressive tribalism and apocalyptic anarchy. The punk look involved a cacophony of clashing visual references, all wrenched from their familiar settings and fused into a shocking and original juxtaposition. Punk clothing transgressed established gender differences and subverted traditional symbols of masculinity and femininity, epitomised by Vivienne Westwood's bondage trousers with skirt-like apron, one of the chief signifiers of punk style.

Compared to American punk, British punk was more angry and subversive. In the mid-1970s, Britain was suffering from rising unemployment and the worst economic recession since 1930s. Culturally, it was a time lacking in creative flair and imagination, with concept-based mega-band like Abba dominating the music scene. The punk movement set to out to bring down the establishment and to demolish the numbing status quo that passed for contemporary culture.

 

 

 

The origins of punk lie in the early 1970s New York underground music scene. Born amidst the declining musical forces of big-name musicians, punk aimed to bring back the original style, energy and passion of rock music. Starting with Lou Reed, the scene grew to include Iggy Pop, Richard Hell and the New York Dolls. The latter were briefly managed by Malcom McClaren, one of the instigators of the punk movement in Britain and the architect behind the notorious punk band, the Sex Pistols.