Victoria and Albert Museum: Archive of Art and Design

Marjorie Janko, lingerie designer, papers, 1885-[1974?]


Introduction and summary description

Creator: Marjorie Janko
Reference: AAD/1998/14
Extent: 105 files

Context

Marjorie Janko was born on 12 May 1909 in London. She was educated in London, attending the Haverstock Central School and then Barrett Street School for Hairdressing. She subsequently worked freelance for British Celanese in London from 1927 to 1929. In 1929 British Celanese employed her on a permanent basis. She went on to found the company's design department in London and design sections at other plants including Congleton, Spondon and Wrexham. She also set up the company's showrooms, the first of which was at Hanover Square. She quickly shifted her own design expertise to designing lingerie, and some underwear for children and men. She worked under the name Miss Marjorie Marene, signing her work MM. During the Second World War, British Celanese temporarily relocated its headquarters in Nottingham. Marjorie Janko's department was responsible for making military tents and garments which conformed to British Utility Standards.

Although she continued to be employed by British Celanese, and subsequently Courtaulds when it took over British Celanese, until her retirement in 1974 she also undertook commissions for other companies, including Marks and Spencer plc. During the 1940s and early 1950s she was a columnist for The Maker-up, writing articles on pattern laying and lingerie trends. She produced a history of lingerie, completed in 1951. Although the history had a publisher it never appeared. In the 1960s Marjorie lectured on the history and development of lingerie. She also conducted a number of surveys of the lingerie industry and analysed the differences between the stock of many large department stores. She travelled to shows worldwide in order to keep up with fashions.

Marjorie Janko became a Fellow of the Clothing Institute in 1950, a Member of the Lingerie Standards Committee of the British Standards Institute and a Member of the Council and Qualifications and Education Committee of the Clothing Institute.

Scope and content

British Celanese catalogues and price lists (1885 - 1953); brochures and publications for reference (1896 - ca.1974); scrapbooks (1900 - ca.1955); British Celanese shade books (ca.1924); production and operation papers (ca.1927 - 1967); sketchbooks (ca.1935 - ca.1960); articles (1943 - 1951); photographs (ca.1950 - ca.1959); display sheets and lecture papers (ca.1950 - ca.1969); press cuttings (1950 - 1959); correspondence concerning publication of Production of modern lingerie manuscript (ca.1951); Production of modern lingerie manuscript (ca.1951); sketches (ca.1951); papers relating to Spondon Fashion show (1952); advertisements (1954 - 1966);reports (1961); sizing surveys (ca.1962 - ca.1963); design sketches (1964 - ca.1966); designs, sketches and patterns (1964 - 1967); designers' reports (1965 - 1967); surveys of nightwear and lingerie (ca.1966 - 1967); advertising photographs (undated); fabric samples (undated); painted designs (undated); study of other designers' work (undated).

Organisation

The original working order of these archives has been lost. They have therefore been organized into four broad thematic groups: design and production papers; surveys and design reports; publications, lectures and written material; reference material.

Provenance

Gift of Marjorie and Elizabeth Janko, 1998.

Access

General information on access to material in the Archive of Art and Design is available on the archive pages of the NAL website.

Catalogues and indexes

This online catalogue is a complete description of the archive to file level. A summary description is also included on the National Art Library computer catalogue, and in the published Guide to the Archive of Art and Design


Detailed catalogue

Design and production papers, 1885-1967

Sketchbooks, [ca.1935-ca.1960]
Extent: 4 files
Note: Includes annotated sketches.
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/1 Paris 1936
1 volume, 3 inserts
1936
AAD/1998/14/2 Sketchbook
1 volume
[ca.1960]
AAD/1998/14/3 Sketchbook
1 volume
[n.d.]
AAD/1998/14/4 Sketchbook
1 volume
Includes annotated sketches signed DW apparently not Marjorie Marene's work, together with annotated sketches in Majorie Marene's hand. Also includes fabric samples.
[ca.1935-ca.1939]

Production and operation papers, [ca.1927]-1967
Extent: 6 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/5 Index for production costs
1 volume, 1 insert
Includes prices of fabrics and break-down production costings of garments, together with sketches and fabric samples.
1947-1949
AAD/1998/14/6 M. Marene design book
1 volume, 1 insert
Includes break-down production costings of garments together with sketches and fabric samples.
1966-1967
AAD/1998/14/7 Laying in of patterns and yardage
1 volume
Includes sketches and fabric samples.
[n.d.]
AAD/1998/14/8 Production sketches
2 items
[n.d.]
AAD/1998/14/29 M&S contracted numbers, sketches and lays
1 folder
See also AAD/1998/14/91.
1962-1964
AAD/1998/14/77 Headed writing paper
1 item
[ca.1927]-[193-]

Spondon Fashion Show 1952, 1952
Extent: 1 file
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/9 Preparation for fashion show
1 folder
Includes correspondence, production notes, sketches and fabric samples.
1952

Photographs, [ca.1950s]
Extent: 4 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/10 Miss Marjorie Janko (Miss Marene)
2 items
[n.d.]
AAD/1998/14/11 Celanese lingerie designs being modelled
3 items
[n.d.]
AAD/1998/14/12 Lingerie designs being modelled
6 items
Photographed by Eugene Vernier Ltd photographers.
[ca.1950-ca.1952]
AAD/1998/14/34 Lingerie designs being modelled
1 item
Photographed by Ernst photographic studios.
[n.d.]

Celanese catalogues and price lists, 1885-1953
Extent: 14 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/13 Celanese underwear price list, Spring range
1 volume, 1 insert
1929
AAD/1998/14/14 Celanese underwear price list, Spring range
1 volume
1929
AAD/1998/14/15 Celanese lingerie, Autumn price list
1 volume, 1 insert
Incomplete, with cut-outs.
1933
AAD/1998/14/16 Celanese lingerie, Autumn price list
1 volume
1934
AAD/1998/14/17 Celanese lingerie, Autumn price list
1 volume
Incomplete, with cut-outs.
1936
AAD/1998/14/18 Celanese lingerie, Autumn price list
1 volume
1936
AAD/1998/14/19 Celanese lingerie, Price list
1 volume
[n.d.]
AAD/1998/14/20 Celanese lingerie, Price list
1 volume
Annotated.
[n.d.]
AAD/1998/14/21 Celaspun the new wunderwear
1 volume
Contains introduction to Celaspun and price list. Annotated.
[1934?]
AAD/1998/14/22 Celaspun, the new Autumn and Winter underwear for men, women and children, Price list
1 volume
1934
AAD/1998/14/23 Celanese men's wear, Spring and Summer
1 volume
1935
AAD/1998/14/24 Celanese signifies quality, Spring, Price list
1 volume
Annotated.
1938
AAD/1998/14/25 For every hour Celanese, Press show handout
1 volume
1938
AAD/1998/14/30 Catalogue sheets with prices
1 volume
Includes Celanese catalogues, fabric samples and a Walker Reid Autumn lingerie promotion catalogue.
1885-1953

Celanese shade books, [ca. 1924]
Extent: 3 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/26 Celanese tricot, shade card and fabric samples
1 box
1924 June 14
AAD/1998/14/27 Tricot makes silk extravagant, fabric samples
1 volume
1924
AAD/1998/14/28 Knitted and woven fabrics card
1 volume
[n.d.]


Surveys and design reports, [ca. 1962]-[ca. 1967].

Design sketches, 1964-[ca. 1966]
Extent: 3 files
Note: All annotated. Some sketches in this series may have been used in the designers' reports series.
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/31 Pencil sketches on carbon copy paper
1 bundle
[ca. 1965]
AAD/1998/14/32 Pencil sketches on paper and carbon copy paper, of department stores' collections including DH Evans, John Lewis, BHS and C&A
1 Bundle
Includes draft of Paris show report, October 1964, see also AAD/1998/14/42.
1964-1965
AAD/1998/14/33 Pencil and Carbon copy sketches
1 volume
[ca.1965-ca.1966]

Painted designs, [n.d.]
Extent: 1 file
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/35 Watercolour and white oil painted designs with accompanying typed list
1 bundle
Apparently not Marjorie Marene's.
[n.d.]

Surveys of nightwear and lingerie, [ca. 1966-1967]
Extent: 6 files
Note: Annotated.
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/36 Survey of nightwear and lingerie (including size charts) seen in mail-order catalogues
1 bundle
Carbon copy
1967 Aug-1967 Sept
AAD/1998/14/37 Survey of nightwear and lingerie (including size charts) in mail-order catalogues
1 bundle
Carbon copy and pencil sketches.
1967
AAD/1998/14/38 Basic shapes for nightdresses
1 bundle
Pencil sketches.
1966 July
AAD/1998/14/39 Briefs and bikinis, including size charts
1 bundle
Carbon copy.
1967 June
AAD/1998/14/40 Undies trimmed with allover-piece lace and narrow lace edgings
1 envelope
Includes sizing and fabric requirements. Typescript and pencil.
[n.d.]
AAD/1998/14/41 Womens slips
1 envelope
Carbon copy.
[n.d.]
Contains: basic slip shapes; variations on basic shapes; slip survey of garments seen in stores, shops, multiples, mail-order catalogues, trade papers and American periodicals.

Designers' reports, 1965 Feb 17-1967 Feb
Extent: 9 files
Note: Contains reports and annotated sketches.
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/42 Paris show report October 1964
2 items
See also AAD/1998/14/32 for draft. Carbon copy.
1965 Feb 17
AAD/1998/14/43 No.6, Covering Nottingham, Leicester, London and Cologne Fair.
1 bundle
Carbon copy.
1965 Dec 15
AAD/1998/14/44 Cologne report
1 bundle
Carbon copy.
1966 Jan 4
AAD/1998/14/45 No.7, Paris corsetry and lingerie exhibition
1 bundle
Carbon copy.
1966 Mar 3
AAD/1998/14/46 No.9, Covering Leicester, Stoke, Hanley, Newcastle and London
1 bundle
Pencil sketches on carbon copy paper.
1966 Oct
AAD/1998/14/47 No.9, Covering Leicester, Stoke, Hanley, Newcastle and London
1 bundle
Carbon copy.
1966 Oct
AAD/1998/14/48 No.10, Children's wear seen in London shops and stores
1 bundle
Pencil sketches on carbon copy paper.
1966 Nov
AAD/1998/14/49 No.10, Children's wear seen in London shops and stores
1 bundle
Carbon copy.
1966 Nov
AAD/1998/14/50 Paris February 1967
1 bundle
Pencil sketches on carbon copy paper.
1967 Feb

Designs, sketches and patterns, 1964-1967
Extent: 1 file
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/51 Draft designs in pen
1 box
pencil and carbon copy
1964-1967

Sizing surveys, [ca.1962]-[ca.1963]
Extent: 4 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/52 Chain store basic chart of size designations and specifications from Littlewoods and Dorothy Perkins
1 bundle
1962-1963
AAD/1998/14/53 British Home Stores minimum finished garment measurements
1 bundle
[n.d.]
AAD/1998/14/54 Marks and Spencer size specification
1 bundle
1962 Sept
AAD/1998/14/55 Stripping schedule for various outlets
1 bundle
1963 May

Study of other designers, [n.d.]
Extent: 1 file
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/56 Draft account of operations within a design room
3 items
[n.d.]


Publications, lectures and written material, [ca.1943]-[ca.1960s]

Articles, 1943 Dec-1951 Dec
Extent: 2 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/57 'Production of lingerie' by MM, published in The Maker-up
1 envelope
1948 Aug-1951 Dec
AAD/1998/14/58 'Lingerie Review' by MM, published in The Maker-up
1 bundle
Includes fabric samples.
1943 Dec-1947 Dec

Lectures, [ca.1960s]
Extent: 3 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/59 Lecture notes - M. Marene
1 folder
Includes typed and handwritten scripts, letters and patterns.
1966-1967
AAD/1998/14/60 Slips MM
1 folder
Typed annotated scripts.
[196-]
AAD/1998/14/61 Careers - lingerie designers for the wholesale and store trade, Typed annotated script.
9 items
[n.d.]

Displays, [ca.1950]-[ca.1967]
Extent: 6 files
Note: Thought to have been used in lectures.
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/62 Basic charts - slips
1 roll
Drawn in pen and pencil.
[ca.1967]
AAD/1998/14/63 What next, Gussie? and Petti-tights
1 envelope (1 item)
Cut out and pasted onto a board.
1950 June 24-1959 Feb 20
AAD/1998/14/64 Negative prints of designs
1 envelope (25 items)
See also AAD/1998/14/65, 69, 70, 74, 75, and 76.
[ca.1951]
AAD/1998/14/65 Prints of designs, from 1400 onwards
1 roll (51 items)
See also AAD/1998/14/64, 69, 70, 74, 75, and 76.
[ca.1951]
AAD/1998/14/66 Negative prints of patterns, lays and designs, from 1885 onwards
1 envelope (11 items)
See also AAD/1998/14/67 and 76.
[196-]
AAD/1998/14/67 Prints of patterns, lays and designs, from 1885 onwards
1 roll (21 items)
See also AAD/1998/14/66 and 76.
[196-]

Display indicators, [196-]
Extent: 1 file
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/68 Cards with garment names and dates written in ink
1 envelope
Covering period 1940 to 1959.
[196-]

Production of modern lingerie book - unpublished, [ca. 1951]
Extent: 2 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/70 Production of Modern Lingerie by M.Marene F.C.I.
1 volume. 1 insert of British Standard for lingerie.
[ca. 1951]
See also AAD/1998/14/64, 65, 71 and 72. Draft with annotations. Includes prints and pencil sketches. Includes cut-outs from The Maker-up.
AAD/1998/14/69 Production of Modern Lingerie by M.Marene F.C.I.
1 volume
1951
See also AAD/1998/14/64, 65, 71 and 72.Completed but with annotations. Typed, with ink and pencil illustrations. Includes patterns from The Maker-up.

Sketches, [1951?]
Extent: 2 files
Note: Possibly used in M.Marene's Production of modern lingerie book.
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/71 Prints of sketches
2 items
See also AAD/1998/14/69 and 70.
[1951?]
AAD/1998/14/72 Ink and pencil sketches
1 item
See also AAD/1998/14/69 and 70.
[1951?]

Correspondence concerning M.Marene's Production of modern lingerie book, [1951?]
Extent: 1 file
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/73 Letter from The Maker-upadvertising M.Marene's book Production of modern lingerie
1 item
[1951?]

Catalogues of prints, [196-]
Extent: 3 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/74 Prints of design sketches, covering period 1914-1959
1 volume
[196-]
See also AAD/1998/14/64, 65, 69 and 70.Cut out and stuck onto boards.
AAD/1998/14/75 Prints of design sketches, covering period 1400-1962
1 volume
[196-]
See also AAD/1998/14/64, 65, 69 and 70.Cut out and stuck onto boards.
AAD/1998/14/76 Prints of design sketches, covering period 1800-1959
1 volume. 9 inserts
[196-]
See also AAD/1998/14/64, 65, 66, 67, 69 and 70.Cut out and stuck onto boards.


Reference material, 1896 Oct 3 - [ca. 1974]

Advertising, 1954-1966 May 20
Extent: 2 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/77 Lingerie ad-clip review
1 bundle
5 editions with cut-outs.
1962 Aug 10-1966 May 20
AAD/1998/14/78 Lingerie ad-clip review
1 envelope
Cut-outs.
1954-1966 May 20

Newspapers, 1950 Jan -1959 Oct 11
Extent: 5 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/79 Women's Wear Daily, Spring lingerie negligees
1 volume
A mixture of editions, cut and pasted together.
1950 June 29-1955 Jan 6
AAD/1998/14/80 Women's Wear Daily
1 bundle
Loose pages.
1951 Aug 30-1952 Jan 10
AAD/1998/14/81 1900 Turn of the Century 1950, the story of fifty tremendous years
1 volume
A Daily Mail publication.
1950 Jan
AAD/1998/14/82 A Firm Foundation
1 item
Newspaper article about lingerie, cut out and pasted onto a board.
1959 Oct 11
AAD/1998/14/83 Bygone style
1 item
Newspaper article about children's fashion.
1950 Nov 27

Scrapbooks, [1900-ca. 1955]
Extent: 3 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/84 Scrapbook
1 volume, 13 inserts
[ca. 1933]-[ca. 1937]
Annotated.Contains newspaper articles about the history of lingerie, pages from catalogues, sketches in pencil on paper and tracing paper.
AAD/1998/14/85 Scrapbook
1 volume, 22 inserts
Contains newspaper articles, pencil sketches on pattern paper, cut-outs from catalogues.
[ca. 1949]-[ca. 1951]
AAD/1998/14/86 Scrapbook
1 volume
[1900]-[ca. 1955]
Contains newspaper articles, pages from Women's Wear Daily, cut-outs from catalogues and magazines. All contents loose.

Other designers, [n.d.]
Extent: 2 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/87 Designs from New York shows and stores, stamped 'Richard Steinweg Studios New York'
1 bundle
Sketched in pencil and watercolours on tracing paper, with annotations.
[n.d.]
AAD/1998/14/88 Clothes designs, fabric on cardboard
6 items
[n.d.]

Fabric samples, [n.d.]
Extent: 1 file
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/89 Walker Reid, Book of nylon fabric samples
1 volume
[n.d.]

Advertising photographs, [n.d.]
Extent: 1 file
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/90 Consortium paris-lingerie, Photograph of lingerie modelling
1 item
[n.d.]

Reports, 1961 June 9
Extent: 1 file
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/91 Placement report of the Fashion Institute of Technology's class of 1961, Employment of graduates
1 volume
Taken from folder AAD/1998/14/29
1961 June 9

Publications and brochures, 1896 Oct 3-[ca. 1974]
Extent: 14 files
Reference Description Dates
AAD/1998/14/92 Isobel's Home Notes, double Autumn number
1 volume, 1 insert
1896 Oct 3
AAD/1998/14/93 Fashion exhibition, New Hall Olympia London W14
1 volume, 204 inserts
1927 Sept 5-1927 Sept 16
AAD/1998/14/94 Van Raalte, Lingerie brochure for women and children
1 volume
Includes fabric samples
1933
AAD/1998/14/95 Folies Bergere, La Folie d'Amour, Programme
1 volume
1936
AAD/1998/14/96 Apparel arts fifth anniversary issue, vol vii, no.1a. A history of clothing.
1 volume
Includes advertisements.
1936
AAD/1998/14/97 British Standard size fittings for women's and children's clothing, Buyer's guide
1 volume. 2 inserts
1950 Sept
AAD/1998/14/98 British Standard 1338:1952 Lingerie
1 volume
1952 Mar 13
AAD/1998/14/99 Style reports, volume xxiii, no.7
1 volume
1953 Sept
AAD/1998/14/100 Learning about lace, bobbin net and embroidery
1 volume
[1962 Oct?]
AAD/1998/14/101 Learning about lace
1 volume, 1 insert
[ca.1962]
AAD/1998/14/102 Scanlace Spring symphony, Mannequin show 1966
1 volume
Annotated.
1966
AAD/1998/14/103 The Clothing Institute, yearbook and membership register 1974
1 volume
1974
AAD/1998/14/104 Lingerie, les cahiers du jardin des modes, 5 annee, no.43
1 volume. 1 insert
[n.d.]
AAD/1998/14/105 Man-sew, machines and attachments, Sewing machine brochure
1 volume. 1 insert
[n.d.]
AAD/1998/14/106 Invitation, programme and list of recipients for Courtaulds long service award
1 file
[n.d.]