At Chiso Kimono makers
Research trip to Kyoto and Tokyo
As part of my research for both the exhibition itself and the accompanying book , I endeavoured on my first trip to Japan in February of this year. The plan was to visit Kyoto to see some of the craftspeople that contribute to the making of Yohji Yamamoto’s incredible garments. The second stop would be Tokyo, or rather Shinagawa, where I would visit the headquarters and, rather nerve-wreckingly, have to interview Mr. Yohji Yamamoto for the publication.
First stop Kyoto, home of small craft industries in particular textiles and ceramics. The Kyo-yuzen dyeing technique originated here in the 1700s and it was the making of this particular kind of Kimono I was about to witness. From the first visit to Chiso in Kyoto (one of the most eminent of Kimono-making companies established in 1555 and also a close collaborator of Yohji Yamamoto) until completed Kimono can take up to three months and hundreds of man-hours designing, dyeing and making it .
Ao-bana utushi – tracing with traditional ink that disappears in the wash
We meet a room full of designers who adapt historical kimono patterns or create new ones depending on the client’s wishes. One very humble man was introduced to me as he has over the last decade designed the embroidery and patterns for the only made-to-measure collection Yohji Yamamoto has done for no-one less than Sir Elton John and his Las Vegas Red Piano stage show! We get taken through all the steps of the long process of creating a Yuzen kimono and at the end see how the first version of the finished item is scrutinised by at least half a dozen Chiso managers.
Ao-bana utushi – tracing with traditional ink that disappears in the wash
Dyed half of a full length kimono
Dyeing vat that emulates the movement of water of the Kamo river that runs through Kyoto where this used to be done
Iro-sashi – painting the design
Iro-sashi paint colours
Gold-leafing – I tried my hands on this one, can’t say I am too talented
After this we go to visit a small-scale embroiderer who works on Chiso’s products details and get a glimpse of the embroidery done for Sir Elton John.
