the museum ofThis sequinned cotton top was one of 91 looks and bears reference to the persecution of the Russian imperial dynasty. The clear sequins are overlaid with a haunting black and white photographic print of three of the Russian Imperial Romanov children who were murdered with their parents Tsar Nicholas II and Tsarina Alexandra by the … Continued
Referencing an ocean liner’s metal hull, the shoe’s appearance also echoes the punched-hole fastening mechanism of Meccano, a toy construction system. Design references include the John McTiernan film The Predator (1984), which featured a lethal menace in the form of technologically advanced extra-terrestrial life. McQueen’s resulting design melds the human and the mechanical, lending the … Continued
The inspiration behind the collection was Elizabeth How, a distant ancestor of McQueen’s who had been burned at the stake after having been declared guilty of practising witchcraft. The ominous subject matter was channelled via the collection’s predominantly dark aesthetic. For example, a tightly fitted maroon moulded leather bodice with face mask hinted at the … Continued
Both designers shared a preoccupation with human anatomy. McQueen was fascinated by the spine and had previously used cut and construction techniques to elongate and beautify the body with his ‘Bumster’ trousers. The aluminium ‘Spine’ corset mimicked the spine’s structure and armoured the body with a sinister, even sadomasochistic aesthetic. The construction of this large … Continued
The sculpted heel in the shape of an angel is accompanied by the forms of feathers in relief along the sole of the shoe. A pair of silver embroidered wings frame the foot, suggesting imminent flight. This sense of motion is strengthened by the angel’s resemblance to a figurehead poised at a ship’s prow. The … Continued
McQueen had collaborated with Mullins for the September 1998 ‘Fashion-able’ issue of Dazed & Confused magazine, and wanted to create three different pairs of legs for her to wear in the show: one pair in glass, one pair made of Swarovski crystal and a pair in wood. Only the wooden legs were produced and McQueen … Continued
The collection, which had a futuristic, other-worldly feel to it, was also known as the ‘Alien’ show. The sculptural form rose out of the funnel neck of a dramatic silver tulle gown that was cinched tightly at the waist to contrast with the wide neckline and full A-line skirt. It created an arresting final image … Continued
It was an interesting departure for Leane, who trained as a fine jeweller and goldsmith and typically rendered designs in precious metals and stones. McQueen, however, frequently used provocative materials in his designs as a mechanism through which to challenge conventions. He once said, ‘I think there is beauty in everything. What “normal” people would … Continued
Models in his La Poupée collection (Spring/Summer 1997) splashed through a watery catwalk. In his last fully realised collection, Plato’s Atlantis (Spring/Summer 2010), humans had adapted to survive in a futuristic underwater world by reverting to an amphibian state. A scuba diver who installed tanks of exotic fish in his home and studio, McQueen was … Continued
The inspiration behind the collection was Elizabeth How, a distant ancestor of McQueen’s who had been burned at the stake after having been declared guilty of practising witchcraft. The ominous subject matter was channelled via the collection’s predominantly dark aesthetic. For example, a tightly fitted maroon moulded leather bodice with face mask hinted at the … Continued
