The interior of the jewel is first filled with a mixture of shellac and antimony, known as surmai.
It’s then secured in to a rod for handling.
The foiled diamonds are placed in position and then gently heated with charcoal until they’re set.
Any excess surmai is removed with a fine chisel.
This coiled ribbon-like foil is of pure 24 carat gold, known as kundan.
Small sections are lifted and placed on the gold wall of the setting.
This kundan is then forced into the wall’s edge using a fine chisel in an action that also serrates the edge, creating a strong bond.
The kundan is continually folded and worked, with more added, until a thick wall has been developed up to, and slightly overlapping, the edge of the gem.
The setting is then smoothed and shaped with the chisel.
The jewel is then removed and cleaned.