David Batchelor, Ex-Concreto 03, Detail 2

special event

Tartan: Exploding the Grid

Friday 12 January 2024

An international conference expanding the thinking from our latest exhibition, Tartan.

Recognising tartan as an inspiration for design as well as a powerful cultural symbol, the conference will provide an opportunity for international researchers, artists, designers, and tartan fans to connect and exchange ideas and knowledge.

Join us for a day of discussions and presentations, unpacking the new research that underpins the exhibition. Together with our speakers (full list below) you can uncover tartan’s global, timeless influence along with its limitless possibilities for opening up new ways of design thinking, making and research.

Taking inspiration from Jonathan Faiers’ book Tartan, the exhibition was developed by V&A Dundee curators Kirsty Hassard, Mhairi Maxwell and James Wylie working alongside consultant curator Jonathan Faiers and an expert advisory group.

All in-person attendees will have exclusive access to the exhibition in our early-morning private view. Your ticket includes lunch and refreshments.

We are also very excited to announce that Dundee Contemporary Arts will be hosting an associated special 35mm screening of Emeric Pressburger and Michael Powell’s 1945 film ‘I Know Where I’m Going!’ on Friday 12 January, details and tickets are available here. This will be followed by a drinks reception in Jute Café Bar.

You can see the full programme of events here.

Please note: this event will be filmed and livestreamed.

Generously supported by University of Southampton, this conference has been convened by Jonathan Faiers, Kirsty Hassard, Mhairi Maxwell and James Wylie.

Friday 12 January 2024

09.00 - 17.00

Juniper Auditorium

£50/£30 concessions

With presentations from:

David Batchelor's work is concerned above all things with colour, a sheer delight in the myriad brilliant hues of the urban environment and underlined by a critical concern with how we see and respond to colour in this advanced technological age.

Professor Hugh Cheape has devised and teaches a postgraduate programme, MSc Cultar Dùthchasach agus Eachdraidh na Gàidhealtachd, at Sabhal Mòr Ostaig UHI, the National Centre for Gaelic Language and Culture. The MSc has grown out of his curatorial and ethnological work during a career in the National Museums of Scotland where latterly he was Principal Curator in the Department of Scotland and Europe.

Caitlin Powell is a Gaelic student at Sabhal Mòr Ostaig, currently pursuing a Research Masters in Gaelic colour terms and perceptions. Raised in Maine, she studied Modern Languages at the University of Maine, and graduated with a BA in French in 2013.

Maria Hayward is professor of Early Modern History at the University of Southampton and she works on the Tudor and Stuart periods which a particular focus on textiles and clothing. Her books include Rich Apparel: Clothing and the Law in Henry VIII's England and Stuart Style: Monarchy, Dress and the Scottish Male Elite.

Peter Eslea MacDonald is an internationally recognised Tartan Historian. He has been studying and researching tartan for the past 40 years and is the leading authority on 18th and early 19th century patterns and techniques, particularly those of the weaving firm William Wilson & Son (1765-1926). He is a self-taught hand-weaver with some 30 years of experience and has demonstrated and lectured widely.

Panelists include:

Dr Shaun Cole is a writer, lecturer and curator, specialising in sexuality, gender and fashion and style. He is Associate Professor in Fashion at Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, where he is also Co-Director of the ‘Intersectionalities: Politics – Identities – Cultures’ research group.

Owen Edward Snaith is a Dunbar born designer and creative. Snaith graduated from the University of Westminster, showcasing his graduate collection ‘Incentive’ at LFW in 2022. Since graduating, his work has been featured as part of the V&A Dundee’s ‘Tartan’ exhibition, sparking a collaboration with drag icon Cheddar Gorgeous.

Dawn Robson-Bell relocated to the Scottish Borders to study textile design at Heriot-Watt University. After graduating in 1987, and whilst between jobs, she took a temporary role at Lochcarron and has been with the company ever since. In 2017 Dawn was made Chief Operating Officer and then became Managing Director 12 months later.

Dr Rosie Waine is a fashion historian and curator based in Scotland. She specialises in the history of tartan, Highland dress, and the material world of Jacobitism. Her research also explores romanticised representations of Scotland and Scottishness within contemporary media. She has a PhD in History from the University of Southampton.

Teleica Kirkland is a Lecturer in Cultural and Historical Studies (CHS) at the University of the Arts London: London College of Fashion, a PhD candidate at Goldsmiths University, and the founder and Creative Director of the Costume Institute of the African Diaspora (CIAD) an organisation dedicated to enabling the study of clothing and dress history from the African Diaspora.

Avalon Fotheringham is curator for the South Asian textiles and dress collection at the Victoria and Albert Museum. She studied fibre and material practices at Concordia University, Montréal, and the History of Design at the Royal College of Art, London. Before taking up the post of curator she worked as Research Assistant for the 2015 exhibition The Fabric of India at the V&A. She is the author of The Indian Textile Sourcebook (V&A/T&H).

Louise Gray is a multi-disciplinary artist, designer, creative consultant, and educator. Co-founder of adrenaline darling records. Louise’s practice traverses writing, fashion costume and now sound, challenging the notions of self and the culture we inhabit. Louise Gray’s work is prominently displayed in Tartan until January 14th 2024.

Sabrina Henry is a curator and costume designer. Her curatorial practise thinks through questions of post-coloniality as they exist in Scotland to contribute to the wider discourse around the effects of power and modernity with a focus on the geographies of the Atlantic. In her costume practice she works with artists of various disciplines to connect pre-colonial traditions with the contemporary British experience as a way to re-imagine the future. Her textile work uses handcraft techniques to create contemporary artefacts that retell the history of Black diasporic presence in Scotland.

Nat McCleary works as an actor, writer and mover based in Glasgow whose own work focuses predominantly on intersectionality and identity - currently through the prism of nationalism. As an actor and movement specialist, Nat has a unique perspective on the relationship between text and the body as narrative. Her play Thrown (Dir. Johnny McKnight) was recently presented by the National Theatre of Scotland at the Edinburgh International Festival after a Scottish tour in summer 2023.

With a performance by:

Sculptor and photographer Michael Sanders is a UK based artist working from a former military airfield in Lincolnshire, England. His practice often subverts the everyday: as the blundering nuclear tourist he makes gentle interventions at former Cold War and nuclear sites, using tartan and textiles to challenge and re-appropriate the imagery and symbolism of military power and technology.

Convened by:

Jonathan Faiers is Professor of Fashion Thinking, University of Southampton, U.K. and consultant curator for the Tartan exhibition. His research focuses on the interface between culture, textiles and fashion. Jonathan has published widely on his subject including Tartan (Bloomsbury Publishing) which provided the inspiration and critical framework for the exhibition at V&A Dundee, Dressing Dangerously: Dysfunctional Fashion in Film and Fur: A Sensitive History (Yale University Press).

Kirsty Hassard is a curator, and fashion historian, and co-curator of Tartan at V&A Dundee, and previously worked in the Furniture, Textiles and Fashion department at V&A South Kensington. Kirsty has worked on a range of exhibitions including Night Fever: Designing Club Culture, Mary Quant at V&A Dundee, and Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion at V&A South Kensington. She has published on women and work, and the relationship between fashion and print culture in the eighteenth century.

Dr Mhairi Maxwell is one of the co-curators of Tartan, while other projects and exhibitions include Scottish Design Relay, Studio Nicholas Daley, Mary Quant and Sincerely Valentines: From Postcards To Greetings Cards. Starting her career as an archaeologist, she is now Curator of Modern and Contemporary History at National Museums Scotland. Mhairi has previously held posts at Glasgow School of Art and V&A Dundee, has experience in young people and community engagement, exhibition curation, design and development, and has published on themes of identity, creativity, belonging and material culture.

James Wylie is Assistant Curator at V&A Dundee, with previous experience in curatorial practice with Angus Museums & Galleries. Wylie is co-curator on Tartan, V&A Dundee's first major in-house temporary exhibition and has previously worked on exhibitions Assemble: Making Room, Sincerely, Valentines: From Postcards to Greetings Cards, as well as Stories from the Building.

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