Horst P. Horst – an introduction
The idealised figures and spot-lit style of Horst's images shaped the way fashion was presented in the 20th century
Horst P. Horst
One of the 20th century's premier photographers, Horst P. Horst (1906 – 99) was a master of light, composition and atmospheric illusion, who conjured a world of sensual sophistication. The V&A's collection features a wide selection of work from across his 60-year career – including his work for Vogue, celebrity portraiture, nudes, travel images and botanical studies, in both black & white and colour.
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Working mainly in Paris and New York, Horst created images that transcend fashion and time. His photographs graced the pages of Vogue and House and Garden under the one-word photographic byline 'Horst', which became synonymous with his use of dramatic lighting and atmospheric style.
Collection highlights
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Mainbocher Corset (pink satin corset by Detolle), photograph, by Horst P. Horst, 1939, Paris, France -
Hat and coat-dress by Bergdorf Goodman, modelled by Estrella Boissevain, 1938. © Condé Nast/Horst Estate -
Salvador Dalí’s costumes for Leonid Massine's ballet Bacchanale, 1939. © Condé Nast/Horst Estate -
Marlene Dietrich, New York, 1942. © Condé Nast/Horst Estate -
Dinner suit and headdress by Schiaparelli, 1947. © Condé Nast/Horst Estate -
Male Nude, 1952. © Condé Nast/Horst Estate -
Summer Fashions, American Vogue cover, 15 May, 1941. © Condé Nast/Horst Estate -
Dress by Hattie Carnegie, 1939. © Condé Nast/Horst Estate -
Muriel Maxwell, American Vogue cover, 1939 © Conde Nast, Horst Estate
Features
Horst in colour
Watch the behind-the-scenes preparations to create new colour prints for the major Horst retrospective exhibition at the V&A
Horst at work: behind the scenes at American Vogue
Original film footage from the Vogue cutting room floor gives a fascinating insight into the history of fashion publishing
Background image: Muriel Maxwell, American Vogue cover, 1939 © Conde Nast, Horst Estate