Read

Elsa Schiaparelli: key moments that shaped the iconic surrealist fashion pioneer

Exhibition

Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art

  • Opens Saturday, 28 March 2026

  • V&A South Kensington

1890

Elsa Luisa Maria Schiaparelli is born in Rome on 10 September to Maria‑Luisa and Celestino Schiaparelli.

Portrait of Elsa Schiaparelli, by Man Ray, 1933. © 2025 Man Ray 2015 Trust. DACS, London. Photo Collection SFMOMA. The Helen Crocker Russell and William H. and Ethel W. Crocker Family Funds purchase

1913 –16

Schiaparelli moves to London where she meets and marries theosophist Wilhelm Wendt de Kerlor.

In 1916, in the midst of the First World War, the couple relocate to New York where Schiaparelli spends time with musician and writer Gabrielle Buffet‑Picabia and artist Man Ray.

1920 – 22

Schiaparelli's daughter, Maria Luisa Yvonne Radha (Gogo), is born on 15 June 1920. Two years later, following the breakdown of her marriage, Schiaparelli moves with Gogo to Paris.

1924

French writer André Breton publishes his Manifeste du surréalisme (Surrealist Manifesto). The movement's non‑conformity has a profound impact on Schiaparelli.

1925 – 26

With encouragement from couturier Paul Poiret, Schiaparelli becomes the designer of Maison Lambal, a small Parisian fashion house.

Cravat jumper, designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1927, France. Museum number: T.388-1974. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1927

Schiaparelli presents her first solo collections of hand‑knitted sweaters featuring geometric patterns and trompe l'oeil bow‑knots, the latter becomes a smashing success.

She establishes her own company in Paris with funds provided by Charles Kahn, co‑director of the Galeries Lafayette department store. She opens a premises at 4 rue de la Paix.

1928

Schiaparelli launches her first perfume, the unisex fragrance S.

1931

Schiaparelli becomes a French citizen.

1933

She opens a branch of her couture business at 6 Upper Grosvenor Street in Mayfair, London.

1934

Schiaparelli is the first female fashion designer to be featured on the cover of Time magazine.

Elsa Schiaparelli in her boutique at 21 Place Vendôme, Harper's Bazaar, October 1935. Photograph by François Kollar. © GrandPalaisRmn - Gestion droit d'auteur François Kollar

1935

Schiaparelli moves her Paris couture salon to the prestigious Place Vendôme, choosing the distinguished designer Jean‑Michel Frank with artist Alberto Giacometti to decorate the interior.

Leonor Fini for Schiaparelli, perfume bottle Shocking, 1937. © 2025 ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London. Photo: Patrimoine Schiaparelli, Paris. Photograph © Emil Larsson

1937

Schiaparelli launches one of her most successful perfumes, Shocking, and its namesake colour, Shocking Pink.

Actress Mae West delivers an unforgettable performance wearing bespoke Schiaparelli costumes in the Hollywood film, Every Day's a Holiday.

Mae West wearing Elsa Schiaparelli in 'Every Day's a Holiday' (1937), A. Edward Sutherland (Director). © Moviestore Collection Ltd, Alamy

1939

Schiaparelli closes her London premises.

With the outbreak of the Second World War, Schiaparelli encourages Americans to support the French couture sector.

1940

Following the German occupation of Paris, Schiaparelli leaves France for a lecture tour across 30 cities in the United States, titled ‘Clothes Make the Woman’.

1941

Except for a brief return to Paris, Schiaparelli spends the war years in New York.

Suspected by the Americans of espionage, she is monitored by the FBI. The investigation is soon closed due to lack of evidence.

1942

Schiaparelli organises the exhibition First Papers of Surrealism in New York with writer André Breton and artist Marcel Duchamp.

Her Paris salon is seized and placed under German administration.

1945

When war ends in Europe, Schiaparelli returns to Paris and presents her first post‑war collection.

1951 – 53

Schiaparelli enters into licensing agreements with a range of American manufacturers to develop lingerie, menswear, eyewear and other products.

She creates costumes inspired by the art of Henri de Toulouse‑Lautrec for actress Zsa Zsa Gabor in the award‑winning film, Moulin Rouge.

1954

Shocking Life, Schiaparelli's autobiography, is published.

Schiaparelli closes her Paris couture salon. Her perfume business continues.

V&A exhibition poster for 'Fashion: An Anthology' by Cecil Beaton, 1972, England. Museum no. MA/24/85. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

1971

Photographer Cecil Beaton organises the groundbreaking exhibition, Fashion an Anthology, at the V&A with the largest display of Schiaparelli's work to date, including garments donated by her.

1973

Schiaparelli dies at home in Paris, aged 83.

2006 – 12

The acquisition of the archives and rights to the Schiaparelli name paves the way for the House's revival. In 2012, the Schiaparelli salon reopens at 21 Place Vendôme in Paris.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture autumn/winter 2024. © Giovanni Giannoni. Photo courtesy Patrimoine Schiaparelli, Paris

2017

Maison Schiaparelli is officially granted Haute Couture status by France's Ministry of Industry and its Haute Couture and Fashion Federation.

2019

Daniel Roseberry is appointed Creative Director of Maison Schiaparelli.

2024

Daniel Roseberry is honoured with the International Designer of the Year Award by the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

2027

Maison Schiaparelli will celebrate its centenary.

You may also like

Header image:
© Jamie Stoker